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Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar

 
Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar
Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar
Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar
Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar
Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar
Ma Dalton and Some More - Martina Cufar
 
August 29, 2012 - 
 

Well, I am a bit lazy to write in English, that's why my English website is a bit out of date.

Anyway, weather and babysitting conditions were favorable lately, so I did some trad - multipich routes. In Gendarme du Peigne (3068m) we did with Nico Peige Perdu, 400m 7a+. Well I slipped off in the second 7a+, but due to the eternal run after the last cable car, I didn’t have time to repeat it. Otherwise the route is very nice and very very sustained in the second half. The route was made by Vogler and I learned that one has to respect a lot his 6c and 7a! They are for sure the hardest in the massif of Mont Blanc! Later I did with Victor Estrangin also Fermeture Eclaire, graded 7b in the newest guidebook, but much much easier then it’s neighbor.

 

When there was too windy in the altitudes we went with Nico on, I could say, our wall of Balme (we did our first route together there). There was only one “hard” route left for us, Concile de Pierre (6a+, 7a+, 7c+, AO 8a, 6c, 7c). Nico wanted to check the AO part of the 8a pitch, so we even took a porta ledge with us! But it turned out to be a really hard boulder problem, with onefinger pocket and huge jump on a jug. I didn't even try, I rather concentrate myself on the »normal« variation… I admit it feels strange to pull on three bolts to start an 8a. I did it in a first »real« attempt. I was cleaning and finding solutions for the upper three pitches alone on the static rope once while Tommy was in the kindergarten:-) Nico said he will return when he's strong enough to do the boulder problem.

And then it comes to the nicest route. I need to go up the Aiguille the Midi, 3842m three times to do it! Well, this part is not so tiring, since there’s a cablecar who takes you up:-) The route Ma dalton is one of the most spectacular onces in the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi. To get an impression take a look at hte video of Alex Chabot. http://www.tvmountain.com/video/alpinisme/7057-ma-dalton-aiguille-du-midi-alexandre-chabot.html

When I saw the video I knew it was gonna be hard! The grade is “nothing special”, only 7b+, but there was much more effort needed to do it! The one who doesn’t know how to do a handjam doesn’t have a chance to do it. I went to the route with Sylvie Drouillat, a small and strong local climber, who managed to do the roof during her second visit! It was pleasure to watch her doing it! I had some problems to find a good handjams, especially at the end of the roof when it becomes tighter. Then I finally found my solution with bigger moves, but was too tired to do it. We continued further up. There are two more pitches until the end. On rather normal 6c and one totally hard 7a – large, almost offwidth crack…my nightmare! I was fighting well but flew away just ant the end. Two days of sore muscles guaranteed! The third day I came back with Victor Estrangin and did everything! Not ideally, I preplaced the gear in the roof. And I put on the rubber gloves, which diminishes the pain of the handjams and holds better then tape. Almost cheating. But anyway, I was very satisfied and personally I found the route harder than the famous Digital Crack 8a, that I did two years ago. (in the background on the last photo).

And then one rainy Sunday, when everybody was climbing indoors, we went with Nico to Suet. As locals we know you can climb then in the rain, and not only this, but also that on the rainy day the conditions there in the summer are the best!

“My route” Reve de Larve 8b, a steep crack, was finally dry. I hadn’t been on it for two months, but because of my general good shape lately I was quite self-confident. In the first attempt I “caressed” the final big sloper, in the second one I managed to hold it! That was for sure one of the nicest lines I did! When the occasion I show you a photo!

 

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