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Speed 8c+ in Voralpsee, Switzerland - Nico Favresse

 
Speed 8c+ in Voralpsee, Switzerland - Nico Favresse
Speed 8c+ in Voralpsee, Switzerland - Nico Favresse
Speed 8c+ in Voralpsee, Switzerland - Nico Favresse
 
August 28, 2012 - 
 

I have just repeated Speed 8c+ in Voralpsee, Switzerland. I am so psyched! I finally sent this amazing historical route! It took me 12 days to do it. It's probably the longest I have spent on a sport-climb. The warm temperatures of the summer and the sharp holds didn't really help either but the route was too good to give up and too many tries were too close and gave me too much hope. Sending it come as a nice pressure relieve as it went down on my last day, last try before heading to my next adventure in Norway. When I reached the anchor of Speed I just kept going via Lucie extension which was first done by Cédric Lachat but I can't imagine that it could change the grade from 8c+ to 9a.  If you have the strength to climb Speed I think there is no way to fall on the extension if you know it.

Speed consisted of 30 meters of slight overhang on very compact limestone and 60 very technical moves on small edges with absolutely no rests. That's why the route was called Speed by first ascensionist Beat Kammerlander who found that the best way to climb this route was to climb as fast as possible. When Beat climbed Speed in 1995 it was one of the hardest the climb in the world but for sure the hardest one in this specific style.  Despite of many attempts, up to this date less than 10 people have climbed it. Thank you Beat for this amazing piece of rock climbing and to my girlfriend Argyro Papathanasiou who was patient enough to belay me many times. She also made some nice progress with a quick ascent of Alaska kid 8a and Grenzganger 8a+

Have Fun

Nico

 

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