Jeeeeeej, I made it to finals!!:D
??Last weekend (10.-12. aug.)was my second bouldering-comp of the year, the Adidas-Rockstars in Stuttgart at Porsche arena. Adidas had done it again, jet another great event!The weekend went too fast, and I was not the only one to have a great time. If every comp. where like this I wouldn't have hesitated to compete more!(Then I am talking about the hole package, not just the boulders)
??I had quite a rough qualifiers. Even though the result was alright (9. after quali), my mind was not the best, and so neither was my climbing. I did a few too many mistakes, mistakes I thought I had learn not to do anymore. But I flashed a catch (and that problem)! Might not be the longest or more difficult one, but catching is one of my weaknesses so I am happy about that:)??
The semi came, and my climbing got a little better. The first problem started with a catch, and I didn't really expect to manage it, and I didn't. If I will continue with competing I will have to practice that a lot. Especially when jumping to bad holds, or everything that is not a jug. The second problem was more my style. I did a stupid mistake on my flash-attempt thou, trying to go directly to the top of the wall with my left hand, instead of using an intermediate using the wall. I did it in my second try, swimming in the top. Think my arm helped me a lot:)
The third problem looked really hard for me, and not a boulder pointing my strengths, with heel hooks and slopers. I was lucky to flash that problem, eventhou I was really,really close on falling. If I would have fell there, I would not be in finals. Glad I didn't.
The last problem had the crux opposite of what I thought it would have. I thought the start would be difficult, turned out it was the last move. I got up to the last move plenty of times.I was not able to do it.
I qualified for finals in 6.th place. Marginals where on my side that day, a fall extra and I would have been out! Before finals when I was warming up everything except my finger felt good. I didn't feel so tired as I earlier have been in some finals or semis, and was able to recover good in the break between semis and finals. But in warm-up my finger felt worse.
Right before qualifiers started I had checked my finger with a chiropractor there, who could tell me it was not good, and I shouldn't be climbing. I had taped it up, and it wasn't a problem while climbing in quali´s and semis, but now when warming up it felt really bad. I considered not climbing finals because of this, but I really wanted to climb, and couldn't get my self to rest. Luckily I didn't feel any pain when climbing finals either, maybe cause of adrenalin.
The first problem looked more difficult then it was. I ended up with a different beta than what I had planned from the observation. I think it even involved a knee bar. I was happy to flash it.
The second problem where going well, I managed the first jump and on my first try I was on my last move. There I did a mistake, trying to safe a move- doing it more static, when jumping for the top-jug was much easier. After this attempt 3 of my fingers where bleeding, and another one was already taped. The blood where dripping, and it probably looked like more then it was. I had to do the boulder. I got a normal writing-paper to dry up on, chalked up and managed to do it on my second. Feeling a bit worried and guilty for that I may have left blood on the grips (I was the first climbing). But everybody else flashed that boulder (I think) :)
After a bit confusion back in the isolat both me and Katharina Saurwein thought we were out before the third problem. In this final they didn't count back to the semis or qualis. Jeeej for us, another problem and the problem I thought looked coolest in finals (the one with the yellow boxes). It took me a couple of tries finding the beta to get the bonus, and when I got the bonus and tried to move my feet, they slipped of. I was not able to do this problem. Would love to try it again and probably again:) Akiyo Noguchi was the only one to do that problem- even flashing it! Have to say that Alex Puccio where close on flashing it too, falling in the top, powering through the move to the bonus (where I had to find a foot-beta to manage).
In the end Alex and Akiyo where in the super finals. The super finals needs a top, quit important for the show, as first one up wins (no matter of earlier result in final) and you ring a bell there. So quit hard setting problems here. You don't want it too hard or too easy. Both flashed it, but this year Alex was the fastest one, and the Adidas-rockstar, well done:D
Thanks to Adidas and to everybody who made this event so great!
It was really fun seeing so many strong climbers, and to compete again. I still have a lot too work on, but have to take with me that a lot have also improved- like my capacity. I always learn a lot about myself as a boulderer in comps. Things I can improve, which I also can get benefit of in the outdoors stage.
I ended up with 4. place, one better than last year:) Looking forward to next years comp.!:D
I still haven't been climbing since the comp. Saturday 11., so this would be my tenth day off. I can't lift weight either as the weights will annoy the finger, and I want it to heal as fast as possible. Yesterday was my firs really hard "I can't climb day". Luckily the finger seems to be healing fast, it is much better, and if I hadn't talked to the chiropractor I would have been climbing now. But I want it to be all well first, so I´ll give it to the start of next week, I think. Well, more jogging, more tension, and even more jogging. Need to stay fit for "the battle" in Lillehammer, which I look so much forward to. It will be my third comp. this year. Can almost call myself a competition-climber again:P