Since long ago that every time we came to open the new area of Malniu / Guils of Cerdanya and went home for our usual way, La Molina, I fixed that right up too far at the top of the ski resort , were walls, that image lasted only a few seconds, everyone who asked, on what, no one could say that it was, until a few weeks ago I started looking for information on the site, named this area? this wall has a name?, and the valley?, became an obsession, until very recently I decided to go exploring with a map and compass in hand, the search paid off, but my time was limited and all I could see it was from afar.
Coma Pregona, First Ascents in Direct Mental Hospital - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Joan has been a mainstay in this quest, since if he could reach on foot wall and the photos I do begin to trace the idea we had, it remained to day and hour.
We started the way most marked by fissures and a dihedral, walking distance to the wall and see that the rock quality is not as good as we thought, as my friend Nacho Asturian "Rice pegao" or what is the same, refrigerators, washing machines, microwave stone format, I embarked on making the first ascent and sailed for about 45 minutes by road and cracks that eventually collapsed, shooting projectiles out of the path of Joan, to provide for finished pathway and is the first ascent of Frenopatic35m Directe view on your hard who cares, we had to squeeze a great time, each valued at putting on a trackside.
Joan dares to attempt the second ascent, rises and goes rechistando, sometime complains, takes a long tape to extend any insurance that I have left a tad short, both friend and do a little friction, and reaching the end of the road, I hear a hideous scream of Joan yelling "ferran care", I only have time to look up and take two steps to my left, and right in the position where I assured Joan drops a big rock named as the microwave, rebounds and shoots to the ski slope, I still shake my legs when Joan has almost come to the meeting by commenting down what happened unwittingly relied on a large slab that was within the fissure and the collapsed like a game of tetris, and the size of a microwave made ??its path, if I had come to take or helmet would have saved me or anything, probably would not be writing this now, but this is what that makes us feel alive, and then at night in the shelter with us drank a few beers with laughter, nothing came of it.
Along with the Frenopatic Directe stay another route more to the right another crack / dihedral, Direct Warrior difficulty Panades similar to above but a little more difficult and arrival at the same meeting, the climbing here which left two ways completely clean / traditional style of the meeting except to go down.
To scale these pathways will be necessary, long tapes, a set of friends to number 3, and a repeated 1 and 0.75, with a 70 m rope enough for two tracks, the rock is not excellent, suitable only for cold minds can fall countless stones of all sizes, as more people pass the tracks sanearían, but between access and style of the tracks do not think this comes to pass, the wall is almost all day in the shade , its orientation is north face, if you decide to climb there extreme caution, if not by the state of the rock is by Isards running across the top.
So to celebrate the two tracks we left there, just spent a night in the shelter Niu d'Aliga of La Molina, where we were treated very well and took advantage of step to explore, but that will be in another post, the reviews of the two paths are open at the bottom, if you decide to open a pathway in the wall then respect the style of openness and do based on floating material and not using parabolts / chemicals, etc., the possibilities are still many open as long as you enjoy the shaky ground.
Getting there: There are several options, from the parking lot of La Masella Coma Oriola and go up the ski slope on the left foot hastas wall, calculate each 1hour 45min to upload depends on what you go. Another option is to go from the cable car station's main Ski La Molina, once all the way up about 20 minutes walk down to Eat Proclaim to the base of the wall, there exists a path of classic Strangers in the Night , rather lying terrain, left Corridor Sinatra.