After an incredible summer spent in Europe, I am traveling back home to Washington, DC for a week of relaxation and organization. Amidst spending time with my family (my cousin is getting married – Congrats, Katie!!!) and friends, I will be preparing my stuff to move to New York City for Columbia University. I will be living on the Upper West Side of Manhattan this upcoming year. Let’s hear it for NEW YORK! =]
I won’t be gone from Europe for long, though, because I am nominated for the Arco Rock Legend Award (along with Iker Pou, Daniel Woods, and Dave Graham), which will be presented at the Rock Masters in Arco, Italy at the end of August. I was also invited to compete in the Rock Master Sport Climbing Competition, so I will fly from New York to Italy for the weekend to take part in this legendary event!
I have just left the Adidas Headquarters in Herzogenauch, Germany. While there, I had a 3D scan of my body in the extraordinarily high tech “Athlete Services” department. This technology was unlike anything I had ever seen before – I had a computer-generated Avatar created, providing 140 different precise measurements and fine details of my body composition. Adidas uses this scanning technology for customized products and experimentation with their athletes – from orthopedic shoes to compression or neoprene clothing, to… almost the unimaginable! The Global Headquarters is so cool =]
Amidst this, meetings, and trying new products, I had a great time with the people working at Adidas and I am so thankful for our partnership!
While in Ceuse I had injured my finger and I went to the doctor for this. I have an acute rupture in my ring finger tendon. The doctor advised 6-8 weeks off; however, he said that as long as I tape it so that it is immobilized, I could continue to climb with it until I have a time that is functional with my schedule to take off this chunk of time from competing to recover. Climbing without that finger is better for me right now than taking off 6 weeks of climbing…
A little recap now and my PLAN…
Following Ceuse I traveled to Nuremburg, Germany to film for a Five Ten video along with fellow Five Ten athletes Melissa and Monika. I then went to Stuttgart for the Adidas RockStars event. Despite not having really bouldered since the Balearic Master back in June in Mallorca, I was excited to take part in the boulder event. Adidas arranged a spectacularly impressive competition, hosting the World’s Top Boulderers to contend on stage at the Porsche Arena. Surrounding the event there were various press meetings and the media sure had their wealth of Outdoor Stars including, one of my inspirations, Reinhold Messner, as well as Dean Potter, Barbara Zangerl, Mayan Smith-Gobat, and several others who came to watch and to support Adidas.
The combination of expert-organization, unique and revolutionary walls built specially for the event, and a team of internationally famed route setters, yielded an inevitably great competition. Though my personal performance could have been better, I had a great time with my friends and trying the unique problems.
I have realized, though, that if I want to be consistently happy with my results in bouldering competitions, I need to learn to dyno (jump) better. While sport climbing and climbing outside, I seldom need to do any double-dynos or running jumps, though in bouldering competitions, these movements in particular have become part of the curriculum. Dynamic movements in general have always been a weakness of mine, and before I thought that I could just get by with avoiding them and accepting that I wasn’t great with them. This is the completely wrong approach because as setting in climbing competitions (especially bouldering) becomes more spectacular, moves like these are becoming the norm. I want to succeed in competitions and therefore I need to improve this weakness in particular. Actually – even on Era Vella (a 9a I recently did in Spain) I needed to do very dynamic sequences (not double-dynos but two jumps nonetheless…) in two sections of the route, and I had to return to Spain after having practiced this movement in order to succeed on the route.
Avoiding dynos like the plague will not help me at all – especially not in bouldering competitions – so dynos are one thing I will be implementing into my training! If anyone has any suggestions for practicing jumping, please let me know =]
Now it’s time for some home-cooked food and the comfort of my own bed….!