After SCS Nationals me and Nick Milburn drove out to Chattanooga, Tn mainly to work on our project Southern Comfort (14a) at the Concave in Little River Canyon, Al. We stayed in Chattanooga for about a week trying SoCo. On our last day out to the Concave I warmed up well and sent Southern Comfort my first go of the day and Nick fell on the very last move almost sending. The very last day in Chattanooga we went to a local competition at Urban rocks and had alot of fun climbing the boulder problems they set and at the end of the competition I placed first. We then packed up all our gear from Chattanooga and drove a long 13,000 miles to Rifle Colorado meeting up with Brendan Mitchel, Owen Graham, and Kyle Francis to spend about two weeks climbing in Rifle. Rifle is an amazing place to climb, it's a very different type of limestone compared to what I'm used to in Austin. There's all sorts of side pulls, under cleans, and at least one kneebar on every climb which makes it a really unique type of climbing. For most of the trip I worked on Zulu a classic 14a with a bouldery start and a crimpy finish. It starts with a kinda hard drive by off of a shallow pocket to a good side slot, from the slide slot you set up on some really bad feet that are a bit polished, grab a crimpy under clean, throw big to a pretty good ledge, and from there it's not to bad until the top. The top is difficult because your on micro crimps and tired going to an awkward gaston hold that can really throw you off. The first time I got past the first crux I made it all the way to the last crux and fell, but in all I gave it about 6 or so goes before I sent it. While I was still working on Zulu I witnessed Owen Graham almost send Roadside Prophet (14a) which inspired me to try Roadside after I sent Zulu. It took a couple try's to fully understand the bottom crux of Roadside which like Zulu has a bouldery first crux and a crimpy top crux and again like Zulu i fell at the top crux the first time i got through the bottom. It took me less try's to send than Zulu but it was still a difficult climb because the moves are low percentage off bad side pulls and crimps but on our very last day i got on and sent. I had a great trip out to Rifle and i had lots of fun but I'm glad to be back in my hometown Austin, Tx to start training again.
Great climbers aren't born, they're made and the place that they learn their...