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Rock Retreat! - Sasha DiGiulian

Rock Retreat! - Sasha DiGiulian
Rock Retreat! - Sasha DiGiulian
Rock Retreat! - Sasha DiGiulian
August 08, 2012 - 

After the World Cup in Briancon I traveled to Ceuse, France for two weeks of climbing outside. I had climbed in Ceuse for my first time two years ago, but just for two days, so upon arriving I felt overwhelmed by the amount of new routes to experience. My plan was to try as many new routes as possible – both hard and moderate. To start, everything was going really well and I was making quick progression on a route called “Dures Limites,” a powerful 8c. On my second try on the route I fell on the last move and I thought that I would do it in the next few tries. Well – just as you can surprise yourself with sending, you can also surprise yourself with falling. =] The next series of tries on this route I kept falling on the same last move. I chose to take a break from the route because it was obvious that this last move was just becoming a mental barrier. During this time I did some onsighting and flashing, including L’Ami de Tout le Monde (8b), Face de Rat (8a+), Encore (8a+), and a quick red point of Slow Food (8b+) and Radote Joili Pepere (8b) my second try. Feeling confident, I returned to try Dures Limites for the hopeful send, but I felt a significant pain in my left ring finger pully when I tried it. I have been really lucky these past few years with not being injured, and a finger injury that could put me out of climbing for three months or so is the last thing that I want, so I taped my finger really well and took it easy. I don’t have a coach or a physio traveling with me, so my number one advisor is my own body. It is important to push yourself physically when you feel up for it, and to take it easy when the pieces are not in line. With my pully feeling tweaked, I decided to take this feeling as a warning to take caution for injury prevention. Unfortunately, in the end I did not have the chance to send Dures Limites; however, my finger is feeling much better and I am moving forward with confidence in not being injured!

Along with the climbing, the Ceuse lifestyle was amazing! At first I stayed in a gite (cabin) with my good friend Matilda from Sweden, but then the gite was booked for the duration of the trip so I moved to a tent. I had not camped for a long time and I forgot how much fun it is when you are camping with good friends, staying up watching movies, talking, playing ping pong, and living a simple lifestyle outside. The people and the environment that I am surrounded by make or break my traveling experiences and this is something that I love about the climbing community. I have found that anywhere in the world that I am, whatever language or culture climbers are from, we all can connect on a certain level because we share such an overarching passion for the outdoors and climbing in particular. Climbing is like a common language that interlinks people from around the world and enables fulfilling adventures.

Now I am traveling to Nuremburg, Germany, for a Five Ten photo and video shoot, then I am going to Studtgardt, Germany for the adidas RockStars Event at the Porsche Arena. Following Studtgardt, I will go to the adidas HeadQuarters, then fly home to the US August 14. My cousin is getting married August 16 =] I also start Columbia University in NYC August 27.

Life is a journey – lead your own way and it will be an adventure worth living!

Xx S



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