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Summer = Climbing - Eric Sethna

 
Summer = Climbing - Eric Sethna
 
July 31, 2012 - 
 

So much has been going on this summer it’s been hard to keep track of everything: Lots of comps, busy at work, and plenty of training and outdoor climbing.

Most recently, I’ve been competing at the Summer Sweat Fests. This competition series is not sanctioned for CEC points, but competitors from across Ontario come out and have their shot at the title and big prize money. Aside from cash and bragging rights, this series serves as an excellent tool to practice my competition mentality. When the beach weather hits and the real rock becomes climbable it can be harder to keep your head in the game. I use these comps as extra motivation to push myself during the summer months in preparation for the world cups and tour de bloc season around the corner. As of now I’ve competed in three summer sweat fest comps this season, and I remain the undefeated champion! I was the series winner last year so I'm back again to defend my title! Two more Sweat Fests to go before the finale event at True North Climbing in Toronto. Over $1500 worth of prizes at stake!

The weather here has been sunny and consistently above 30 degrees C. The crags are at their prime for the year. All the climbs that normally seep all season are bone dry waiting to be climbed. I’ve had the chance to get up to the crag a number of times and I’ve been racking up a tick list. One of my most recent projects is an old classic HARD line that has fallen apart, been retro-bolted and is waiting for an assent! I figured out all the moves on it this past weekend and feel like the sendage will be coming soon! I’ve found that adapting to the climbing style of Ontario limestone versus Rockies limestone has been quite difficult for me. It’s hard to stay psyched on something when you’re getting your behind spanked from every direction. This season is the first where I feel like I understand subtleties in the rock and the movement required to scale the unique cliffs of Ontario. I’m planning on getting outside as much as possible with what’s left of the summer, possibly making a trip out to Lions Head for a week or so in mid-August.

With the World Cup in Atlanta fast approaching, I figured it would be a good idea to start thinking about a specific training program for lead climbing. I’ve always found the transition from intense bouldering to endurance based lead climbing both physically and mentally taxing. Lately I’ve been training with my amazing girlfriend, Iyma Lamarche. She’s been whipping me into shape, and for the most part, her ideas about training fit pretty seamlessly with my own. By the way, she’s also the undefeated Sweat Fest champion in the women’s field so far this season! She’ll be competing at the World Championships in Paris, France and then joining me for the Lead World Cup in Atlanta later in the same month – busy girl!

For now, it’s business as usual until the next comps - Work, train, eat, sleep, train, sleep, eat, work, repeat. And if you haven’t seen it, check out the article about me in Gripped in the Northern Faces section! Definitely feeling at the top of my game - the psyche is high!

Eric

 

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