The State of Espírito Santo is located in the southeast of Brazil, and borders on the state of Rio de Janeiro. In the past, this state was very important in developing rock climbing in Brazil, when, in the decade the 60s, some peaks of the highest mountains in the area were climbed the first time, such as: Pedra do Itabira, Pedra da Agulha, Pedra dos 5 Pontões, Pedra dos 3 Pontões, etc...
After that, a new style of climbing emerged and became very popular, and the first sport climbing grag was opened in Vila Velha, in the decade of 80s. Subsequently, more routes were opened for the most older rock climbers in activity today in this State, José Marcio Dorigueto and Oswaldo Cruz “Baldin”. The Morro do Moreno, besides being a beautiful post card, is the main grag of urban rock climbing in the state.
The rock in this area is granite, and has approximately 40 routes, varying in most part from 15m to 20m in height located in 3 sectors (Testa, Boca e Barriga), the names of these sectors refer to the form of a monkey lying down. The grade is from 5(Fr) to 7b+(Fr) and the design of the routes is slab or vertical with very small crimps. Some routes have crystal grabs and slopers - this is the pure style of climbing on granite.
However, this place is open for all, and consequently, there have been some social problems such as graffiti, litter and government carelessness. But, the ACE (Associação Capixaba de Escalada), has been working to overcome some of these problems with the programme of “Adote uma Montanha” meaning “Adopt a Mountain”.
For approximately 25 years, the Morro do Moreno was the goal of rock climbers in this state. In 2005, this story started to change, with the development of new grags, such as Falésia do Capeta, Arrependido , Apeninos, Furlan and, most recently, CALOGI.
This last grag has been climbed since 3 climbers (José Marcio Dorigueto, Sandro Souza e Luca Portilho) returned after conquering this stone in the beginning of 2010 and recognized big potential for sport climbing, and in the next weekend after this news, Naoki Arima, the rock climber most motived to open new routes of sport climbing in the State, together with Diogo Coelho "Rebit" started to develop this grag just to 47Km from the Capital Vitória.
For the lucky rock climbers this area, all this potential was confirmed, when after 9 months of hard work opening new routes, the Calogi was finalized with more than 40 routes and now it is the main sport climbing grag this State. Futhermore, it has both multi pitch sport climb and trad.
A new story of sport climbing in this state has been written, because the Calogi has routes with levels of difficulty never before imagined to be possible in this area, for exemple the route “Avalanche – 8a(Fr)”, the most difficult route of the state, opened by Caio Salomão “aFeto” and the First Ascent of Naoki Arima.
The style of the routes on Calogi is very unique in the state, because in this grag there is a sector with the longest routes, where the top is 30-35m in height and some parts have vertical and overhang, now the thought is to make extensions of some routes, increasing more 30m. The rock in this grag is granite - very abrasive with many different kinds of grabs.
All this was developed in just 5 years for some rock climbers very motived to see the sport climbing in the State of Espírito Santo develop and share this good feeling on the rocks with the other rock climbers.
The future of sport climbing in this State is very promising, because new stones have been found with good potential to open new routes and - who knows? Perhaps we’ll rewrite a new future in a few years.
By: Caio Salomão Amador “aFeto”
More informations: www.ace-es.org.br www.naokiarima.com