Friday the 13
Well I am publishing this blog with some days of delay...I was waiting to get the photos from Tweety!
"Friday the 13 turned out as la lucky day. At least for Slovenian girls in Chamonix. Mina Markovič won the difficulty World Cup, and I did the route that I really didn't expect to do, Tweety 8b in Bionnassay. First time that I had tried it, last November, I couldn't even do all the moves. I was jumping on the old quickdrawers to be able to clip the rope. In the end of April I slowly began to believe I can do it one day, since I was able to do the sections and clipping the rope as you are supposed to. Soon I only did one or two stops. Then I didn't return in the route for month and a half. Partly because it was hot, or wet partly because I didn't feel in shape, because of the antibiotics I ate. And then on Friday the 13 I came to Bionnassay mostly to show the place to my Slovenian friends. And the weather was simply perfect, clouds, not too hot, not too cold, so I went on Tweety again and I felt really good checking out he moves again. I said to myself I had to give it a try. And surprisingly I did it!!!! The best! It’s so cool when it happens like this. I didn’t expect anything, so I was totally relaxed while climbing! But surely a part of my good shape comes from the fact that I was climbing some days on the altitude in the massive of Mont Blanc, so my blood was armed with more red “warriors” then usually, so I was not so pumped. The granite doping:-)
On Flammes de Pierre we did with Nico La reprise, 300m 7a, on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi we tried with Sylvie Drouillat the famous roof crack Ma Dalton 7b+. We have to come bact to free it… Then on Brevent we did with Seb Anglade Premier de Corvee 7a, 180m. I have to tell you we had a great and a bit scary spectacle – there were BASE jumpers flying over us!
Before Tweety I did one more nice route, Gare a Grand Gourou 8a+ in Tines. On Saturday I took the Slovenians in Cascade de Doran, the cliff that is famous that you can climb if it rains. I did La chevre de mon voisin 8a and from THE ROUTE of the sector, Le mur jaune 8b, I fell 2 m from the top. I have to say that this 40m long route is suits me a lot. Slightly overhanging with small crimpers, very technical. But then there are three onefinger pockets at the end! Not my favorite! But I feel I can do it, I just have to place well my feet. But now in the summer I give priority to the multipitch routes, so it will wait a bit. Tuesday Grand Capuccin! Can’t wait to touch the golden granite! "