Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Gypsy in Berlin, First Ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

Gypsy in Berlin, First Ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
July 22, 2012 - 

Two years ago my eyes were crossed with the moss that covered the rock, but there remain, not the time or motivation. Today was a dream come true ... tomorrow will be a dream covered by moss and shade trees.
The Met last year told me that he had taken down in a project that you had on the eye, and say "I want to clean anything before you look at it, I'm not sure you can take it out", so a and I looked again and I turned to look, always from the ground, I imagined movements, a tablecloth in its central part and then I wondered what will happen?


Today he played a bit of clean climbing, needed, needed to feel alive, and only in such situations of uncertainty I feel this way, Joan wanted to try some new boulder problems and spend my excuse was clean this dream that had so often walked , looked, but no scaling.
And while Joan begins to hear a little secret trad climbing (clean, clean, etc), was inaugurated by, Fissure-Guerrero Macia Top rope, The crack of fear 2nd Ascent top roping (the little chained first), then the complex has been working No Bolts No Holds
Positions in between Joan and I have taken down and we cleared the way we wanted to try, the two saw a couple of sections involved, and before we had nothing to test the top rope route in case it was feasible or was just an illusion at first thought they were just illusions perform these movements.
With the top rope rope I'll give the first attempt and not knowing how chained road, making the complex movement of mantle-dynamic, lowering it again, Joan did not take to do the same, and now he has to chain below insurance and floating.
Now everything starts to work differently, the degree of concentration is very high, two mats protect the entrance of the road, about two steps from a chaos of stones, a friend in the midst of this chaos if you fall to avoid being caught in the chaos of rocks, and only two little friends together to protect all the way, this is the game and have come to feel.
Joan and I said give it a try at all, I put the two friends, both one and the other left me on both sides of the hand, I can get a bigger one but I am not prey to hand picking the right toe the microhole and quickly launched a dynamic kick up to the left to start his weight on the foot, in a moment I realize that I do and undo force this movement back to the crash and relax and one after the ritual, this time riding with me and I know I have to push down on the foot out of this mantle and not fall over the rocks and the two friends started, once I ride, it's time to relax a little and a section hand grip without dams to reach the top, once you're all done here, celebration and is the turn of Joan, who in his first attempt fails in the first movement and fate of the mats and placed friend walking track has saved us both a good cookie.
In his next attempt the ascent of the rail route does not fail and made ??the second ascent of Gypsy in Berlin, a pathway that we have dedicated to our friend Met "Gypsy" for this great vision of the road at the bottom he knew that could do, she does not know is that the next challenge is chained like a great big highball, but that's another story.
For Joan has been a great debut in this of traditional climbing, which has shown a great psyche, no doubt a great day to remember.


Popular Stories

Nina Williams - Bouldering in Bishop
09-15-2015 - 
Nina Williams and her pet hedgehog headed to Bishop California this past winter...
Psicobloc 2015
Jimmy Webb
09-28-2015 - 
Je bourrine donc je suis 8b
09-23-2015 - 
I wrote quite a long story about one 8b…well I know now is...