Follow Five Ten

  • Facebook Page: 48708964129
  • Twitter: 5ten
  • Vimeo: fiveten
  • YouTube: FiveTenTV

Singapore Here I Come! - Nicholas Milburn

Singapore Here I Come! - Nicholas Milburn
Singapore Here I Come! - Nicholas Milburn
Singapore Here I Come! - Nicholas Milburn
Singapore Here I Come! - Nicholas Milburn
Singapore Here I Come! - Nicholas Milburn
July 20, 2012 - 

I just finished up competing in the SCS National Championships in Atlanta. It was one of the better competitions I have ever been to. The routes were better than previous years and everything ran smoothly. Stone Summit has yet again proven their awesomeness.

Qualifiers was broken into two days. The first qualifier was a fairly easy route. Most of my age group (youth A) sent it. The second qualifier was significantly harder, but still not too bad. It was a jug haul until a slab section. Then it stepped it up again on the last six moves. Just before I went to the finish jug I knocked my glasses of with shoulder leaving me blind. Luckily the final hold was a jug. I qualified for semi-finals in a six way tie for first. The semi-final route was much more intricate and confusing than the qualifiers. It had a cool jump campus move, a careful slab section, and a sick drop down move. It then moved up several slopers leading up to the crux which was several moves on pinches to two crimps then the finish hold. I hit the first pinch and couldn’t get comfortable. I moved up and fondled the next hold but didn’t grab it. With that go I was moving into finals in fifth.

Finals was intense. Everyone was psyched to see their routes and finish up the comp. The finals route was amazing at first sight. Everyone was freaking out because it looked sick hard. It had a lot of show moves like a 360 spin move and a weird dyno. Iso took way longer than it should have because of a super final, but we all played a game of hacky sack to pass the time. While I was waiting in the chair Dominic Labarge and I played some more hacky sack. Then Dominic asked if he could go to the bathroom, so we both went and held up our age group for a little bit. After the potty break I was ready to go. The bottom was easier than I anticipated. The 360 move was weird, so I did this almost a bat-hang thing that worked for me. And it was a decent rest. The next cruxy move was a small dyno to a big block pinch. This move gave a lot of people trouble. Next was a section was very different. The climb transitioned to a dead vertical wall with slopers above you and small feet. You had to push up on the slopers and move across the wall. It looked a lot harder than it actually was. The hardest part was the last section which is getting to, on and off of a volume. Only two people could get off the volume. I fell trying to get on top of it. The coolest move on the route was jumping off the volume to a sideways jug. I got back on the route two weeks after the comp and did the jump. It is awesome.  This was the best finals route I have ever done and it was set by John Muse. Let it be known that that guy can set.

I ended up fourth in the competition. I should have done better, but I still made the U.S. Team. Singapore here I come!

Photo credit: Faith Sullivan

Popular Stories

Nina Williams - Bouldering in Bishop
09-15-2015 - 
Nina Williams and her pet hedgehog headed to Bishop California this past winter...
Psicobloc 2015
Jimmy Webb
09-28-2015 - 
Je bourrine donc je suis 8b
09-23-2015 - 
I wrote quite a long story about one 8b…well I know now is...