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The Last Days of Siurana - Daniel Jung

 
The Last Days of Siurana - Daniel Jung
The Last Days of Siurana - Daniel Jung
 
July 05, 2012 - 
 

 After sending Estado I worked an other line I was psyched to try. Sadly I it became warm and I had to change to bigger holds :-)

The last four days I used to climb a lot. There were two new nice lines in El Pati just to the right of Dos por Trenta: Projecto Moro 8b+ and El Món de sofia 8b+/c.

I tried El Món de Sofia, its dynamic on good holds in the first part and in the upper part is a nice boulder, a spiky crimp and a long snatsh, funny! Sadly there is a lot of Sika and humidity in the first part, a bit ugly but the moves are so nice! I slipped of at least three times on the wet holds but finally I send it.

 

The day after that I went to Can Piqui Pugi to finish Mauthausen 8b+/c. Everybody told me that this is a nice route and it was inspiring to watsh Jonas Junker doing really nice tries and watching Daniel Müller und Felix Neumärker sending it. So I enjoyed to try it and send this one too :-). There was enough time to go back to El Pati, and to try Projecto Moro. It has the same start as El Món de sofia but went left after the wet holds and keeps on being pumpy till the very top. I had 30 min of light left and Alex gave me the advise to take my headlamp. That was very good, during I was hanging around on the jugs it becomes dark very fast and I was happy to had some light. So I finished the day by sending another nice line.

After two days of climbing I still felt good and I went for a onsight try in "Pati pa mi" 8b

I couldn't reach one bolt so I had to skip it. On the rest- jug I prepared myself for a nice adventure fight in the crux. But the route fit very well and finally there was no need to fight, no real crux just a nice endurance line with good moves. Maybe I should go onsighting more often, it was fun! But onsight climbing can be like this or that, I remember some 7c's which were much harder to onsight...

The last 1,5 days I spend trying a nice project, but this one has to wait for my next trip :-)

The first part of my trip I climbed with Felix Neumärker. He had a pritty nice trip, in just two weeks he send Patinoso, Dos por Trenta, Calea Borroka, Mauthausen, Migranja Profunda, Mr. Checky, flashed and onsighted at least three 8b's and some more routes in the 8ths... Really nice!!

 

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