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Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar

 
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
Tommy's First Birthday and My First Granite After a Year and Nine Months:-) - Martina Cufar
 
June 27, 2012 - 
 

Hello! I am once again completely delayed with my blog. I simply can't do everything I would like toJ

Tommy is celebrating his first birthday! All the best, » petit monsieur”!

Let me briefly describe what was happening over the last two months: we were again in Buoux, where it was very hot so we escaped one day to the sea and later in the shade of a »secret spot » nearby, full of steep tufas with 8c,  9a’s. Well, the latter I have only watched, but we found also some nice 8a’s J

Then we stayed in Chamonix. Nico is working a lot as a “professor ” in ENSA, where they train the candidates for mountain guides. So we only have weekends to climb together. We took advantage of his mother’s offer that she can watch after Tommy one day during the weekend, to do two multipitch routes.  It’s really great after a long long time to spend the day hanging on the wall far from the ground!  We first did Xenon 7b+, 240m on the Maladiere.  Xenon, 7b +, 240m. And last Saturday there were at last all the circumstances suitable (babysitter, weather, health) to go climbing on the granite of the Aiguille du Midi! We did not choose anything hard. Well Nico would like to because he is more than acclimatized, spending many days in the massive. But I preferred to “take it easy”. It’s not obvious to climb on 3800m after a year and 9 months down in the valley! At first I was a bit dizzy and very very hungry, but after a sandwich and a Powerbar I felt perfect and was really enjoying jamming up perfect cracks and choosing the right “friend” to protect them! We did a combination of three routes (6c+max) , avoiding wet parts due to the melting snow and choosing the nicest cracks!

Concerning my projects: they are still on hold. I had no luck with the circumstances: when the routes were dry, Tommy and I were eating antibiotics, when I was in shape, it was all wet, or I didn’t have opportunity to go. Currently it’s so hot and humid, that I don’t even think about them. I did some 8a’s but for 8b I need perfect conditions!

I prefer climbing with my friends some easier classics on the wall of Balme, where the at least you get some cool breeze. We did Realite non ordinaire 7a +, 180m, Y'a de l'Urgo dans l'air 7a+, 180m, and the most beautiful one, Le Vieux de la Montagne 6c, 170m.

I cannot wait for the weekend to put the hands back in the granite cracks!

 
 

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