So for the past 7 days we've been out here on the beautiful front range of Boulder, CO. This is most definitely turning into my home away from home. I've spent around the last 5 summers here as it is definitely the number one spot to escape the dreaded "off season". Another amazing thing about this place is that it provides me with a much needed rhythm. Wake up, eat, hike a couple miles into the back country, climb all damn day, hike back out, eat dinner and relax. It's perfect and as I'm writing this I am feeling super fortunate. Most of the year Kasia and I are back in the South working and making that money to ensure trips like this are possible. It's a much needed vacation and it feels great. On our rest days here we've just been eating a ton. Especially since on a normal climbing day i'm probably burning more calories then I can even eat. Just the other day a friend of ours, Michael O'rourke, took us over to this new hot spot you might of heard of called All Sports Recovery. This place is seriously a dream come true. It's equipped with ice bathes, compression sleeves for the legs and arms, Low level laser therapy, and a very laid back friendly staff willing and able to help speed up your recovery. After the first two days at elevation I was beyond wrecked. Yet after 3 hours in All Sports, I woke up the next day feeling brand new! So if you happen to be in boulder and need some swift recovery go check it out. It's free your first time!!
Colorado 1 - Jimmy Webb
Unfortunately it has been a bit warmer then usual in the alpine but we've been making it work. On our first day we visited Area A in Mt. Evans where Kasia was able to take down Bierstadt V10, and I was able to complete an old project just to the right calling it Aggressive Behavior V12. On the following day we went up to Chaos Canyon. Theres was a hefty crew having a session on the marble bloc so we decided to join the fun. I didn't really have anything in particular that I was psyched to climb on so I decided to do some training trying to repeat as many boulders as I could. Though i felt tired and weak things went decently well and I racked up a bunch of V points for the day. This is when all sports recovery came into play...
Post rest day we went out to the one and only WOLVERINE LAND! We had a very motivated crew this day and the psyche was high! I had heard prior to my arrival about a brand new V14 on the Evil Backwards boulder put up my DanieL Woods. I, accompanied by Nick Duttle, decided to give this new problem some efforts. Very quickly I started to put down some moves and even some real solid links. This boulder problem is pretty long and involved and once you climb the most difficult sections of the rock climb you still have to exit same as evil backwards.. which is not easy.. probably something of a v9 exit. After about an hour into the session I surprised my self by linking the entire boulder together and PUNTING off the very final move of evil backwards.. I was devastated but knew then that I had it in the bag. I sat down, refreshed my mind, and relaxed. It was then that the phrase "shit happens" becomes appropriate..... The next thing I knew I heard Duttle cussing and screaming and holding his elbow. "Your gonna hate me" he says. I looked down at the problem and realized that he broke the most crucial hold on the boulder.. Instantly my thoughts were "it's impossible now". I put my shoes back on and we started to suss out the new sequence. Very soon we realized that this thing just got A LOT harder. It wasn't until an hour and a half later that I finally put together the new sequence. This was longer then it took me to almost send the whole boulder.. The new sequence is technical and very powerful and I think it in itself is around v13. So to put into plain words. The breakdown before, V12 into v10. The breakdown now, V12 into V13. 8C?? I'm not quite sure but if i were to put it together it would most definitely be my hardest send to date. The psyche is high, but I have managed a couple split tips since then so rest days are a must. I'll keep you updated on how this new problem turns out!
Since we've been here I have been shooting a good amount of video so you can expect some good media to be popping up in the coming weeks. Until then here are a few screenshots to keep you psyched!
Also, here is a little video I just finished for my friends over at Organic Climbing. This one revolves mainly around my lady Kasia Pietras as she chats about her relationship with our local climbing gym TBA and the southern community. Kasia has always flown under the radar when it comes to the amount of recognition she receives as a rock climber and more importantly what she does for our community. Managing TBA is no easy task and she single handedly keeps this historic piece of southern climbing history afloat and thriving. It's incredible and my hat stays off to her!