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Canadian National - Routes - Melissa Lacasse

Canadian National - Routes - Melissa Lacasse
June 12, 2012 - 

Since my last blog entry, after the Canadian bouldering championship I have had to work a lot. I knew the difficulty (routes) national was coming up 4 weeks after the bouldering national (we were lucky this year with both nationals being held in Montreal) and I was hoping to train hard in between, but I could not seem to be able to make time for it. So I did what I could, when I could. I did resistance training on the bouldering wall because it takes less time than rope climbing. I even wondered if it was worth it to enter the comp. I like to feel somewhat prepared for those things. The forecast for the weekend was gorgeous and my craving for the rock almost convinced me to just go climbing outside instead. A few people from the climbing team I coach were competing, so I figured I could not miss watching them. I entered the comp, feeling a bit insecure.

Day one was qualifiers. We had to climb 2 routes. I fell on the first one, a little surprise by my fall. It was actually good for me, because it woke me up. I think I started the comp with a weak mind. I was expecting to do badly. After the fall, I told myself: “come on Meli, you know how to climb, just believe in yourself a bit more”. I flashed the second route, although from the bottom, I was impressed by the massive sloppers all the way up.

Day two were semi-finals for routes and qualifiers for speed. The route for semi-final was awesome. It was isolation format. I did well on it, but the pump got to me and I fell 2 draws before the end. I managed to get the high point.

Day three were finals. I knew the route was not my style, but it looked fun. There was a jumpy move from a big pinch near the beginning and after there was no way you could really rest on the holds. I did not finish the route but I got the high point.

In the end I won the difficulty and speed in women’s open. So did Sebastien Lazure in men’s open. My junior kids did well also. It is crazy how the mental aspect is so important. I felt pretty positive the whole weekend. I wanted to do well, but I mostly I wanted to have a good attitude. I wanted to enter the comp with a beginner’s mind like Shunryu Suzuki talks about in his book: “In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, but in the expert’s mind there are few”. At the comp I just tried to be present and not expect anything. I would wake up in the morning telling myself that I was excited, I put a bit of music (Of monster and man) on until I had to go to the comp. Make sure you watch/listen to this video.

Now, it is time for the rock!!


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