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Scarface - Sean Bailey

 
Scarface - Sean Bailey
 
June 12, 2012 -  Sean Bailey    
 

Finally having multiple full days of climbing at Smith Rocks over Memorial Day weekend, I sent Scarface (5.14a/8b+). It was my first 5.14, so I am extremely psyched. The climb is known for its long moves and bad feet, and it never gives you a break until you clip the chains.

Scarface can be broken up into 2 main sections. The first is the powerful, 5.14 climbing, with a crux at the 3rd bolt where you have to do a long pull to a mono, and then a long pull off the mono with bad feet to a good 2 finger pocket. After several more clips worth of energy sapping climbing with no rests, you reach the redpoint crux. The redpoint crux revolves around pulling over the lip of the overhang onto the slab. Once you get fully onto the slab, you have about 20 meters of classic smith rock 5.11 slab climbing. Even though there is no reason to fall off of this section, its something that is on your mind until get to the top.

This second section of Scarface was my crux. The runs between the bolts are quite far, some of being about 25 feet. Until I knew that I had the slab on lock down, it was on my mind from the start of the route. This making the 5.14 climbing impossible to execute. But once I knew I could do the slab, it was over.

Thank you to the Ruana family for taking me to Smith so much. Especially thank you Rudy, for the belay, Chris, for taking time out of your day to make this awesome video, and everyone else who was there, for being such and awesome cheering squad.

 
 
 

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