So last week I headed out to Bishop for my 4th time going there with some friends of mine. On my first day at the Happy's, I blew myself away with sending another v10 called Acid Wash, Acid Wash Right Sit v9, Dove Direct V9, Rave v7, and on-sighting Action Figure V6 all in one day. When I first got there I warmed up, and did Rave second go from the start. Acid Wash went down within about two hours of work, which was surprising to me because of how height-dependent the problem seemed, but I felt too good that day to care and sent it. Shortly after finishing that, the psyche I still had made me want to do more and more, so I did the right variation quickly after that. Feeling better than I ever had before, I wanted to send as many projects and climbs I wanted to do possible within one day. So, with this new positive attitude I had, I sent Dove Direct within 30 minutes, then moved around trying to find new projects. Sadly, the heat was coming in, and finding new problems in the shade wasn't easy. I finished off the day by on-sighting the classic Action Figure, keeping me psyched for the next day. However, the 80-90 degree weather did follow us, and climbing hard was not easy.
Bishop and Big Chief - Nick Bradley
My friends and I found ourselves hiding in the Ice Caves of the Sad's, where the V10 and higher problems are kept "refrigerated." I saw an amazing roof/arete called Aquatic Hitchhiker V10. I met a man who was trying it, and popping off every time of the first move, because of a very slippery and difficult heel-hook in the beginning. I noticed he was not wearing the best shoes, and I decided that must be why, so the next day (when the weather cooled down) I came back to the Ice Caves. Using my favorite Team shoes, I sent my second V10 of the trip. I found myself using the mandatory techniques of great climbers: Always keeping a positive attitude, not jumping right back on a route after a burn, focusing on breathing, digging in exponentially, and lastly zeroing in on one climb at a time. This was a great trip for me, and I can only imagine that it is the start of many more coming up for both sport climbing, and bouldering.
Also, I recently went up to a crag called Big Chief in Tahoe, with Seth Rogers and Mirko Caballero. The warm-ups were fairly poor, with nothing but slabby routes ranging from 10a to 11a, so that didn't help to much. After an attempt of warming up, I sent a 12d called Wicked Quicky second go, which is basically a 5 clip boulder problem. After that, I looked at a beautifully crafted 13a Called Blazing Buckets, and sent that second go as well. The last thing I tried of the trip before I was too flash pumped to climb anything (I need to focus on warming up more next time I go for sure) I got on the 13b left variation of Blazing Buckets. I fell on the last move, but I know if i go back I can send it fresh. It was a good trip though, and hopefully I will get on ropes outside more, rather than just in the gym.