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27 Days Alpine Climbing in the Alaskan Range - Andres Marin

27 Days Alpine Climbing in the Alaskan Range - Andres Marin
June 05, 2012 - 

I just came back from Alaska after a 27 day trip to the Denali base camp area.

I had the opportunity to climb 4 of the Alaska alpine classics, attempted new route and end up climb over 40 guide book pitches. From ice, rock and really scary steep snow.

The first week and half was really cool temps between -20 to -30 keep us pretty much on the tents all day long. Once temps start getting higher we start getting busy. Starting with the SE ridge of francis 5.8 70 degree snow 2,000 feet. Then we head out to the Mini moon flower 14 pitches of AI 3 to 4+. Couple of rest days, recharge batteries and head out to Beacon and eggs  8 pitches of AI 3 to 4. I finish my adventure soloing the E ridge of francis 70 degree snow 2,000. Also we try a new route on the central face of the mini moon flower, but conditions force us to turn around.

Over all a great trip with great friends little to cold but nothing we can do about it.

Looking forward to head back next spring.  


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