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Finding the Spice to Pull Through Wet Holds - Benjamin Rueck

 
Finding the Spice to Pull Through Wet Holds - Benjamin Rueck
Finding the Spice to Pull Through Wet Holds - Benjamin Rueck
 
June 04, 2012 -  Benjamin Rueck     
 

Due to an uncategorically dry winter in Colorado, there has been a unique opportunity present in Rifle Mountain Park to crank on certain routes that would otherwise be impossible to climb later in the season.  As a result I found myself hooked on a certain route located at the back of a place called the Skull Cave.  The route is named Skull F%#k and has to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing route for a person that boulders.  If you actually sport climb you would probably think this thing is kind of gross (as I have been told by many of my friends) but I figured that even these kind of routes need some love every once in a while.

 

At the beginning of the season I decided to check this bad boy out and noticed that one of the main crux holds was soaked, but I figured "what the hell" might as well wire the bottom and crank.  So I did.  I cranked all the way up the soaked hold and discovered that if I kept chalking I could at least pull through the move.  This became both a good and bad discovery-  good because I felt strong, bad because I now had hope to finish the route.  As of writing this blog I have yet to finish the route, but the hold keeps getting dryer and I seem to keep making it a little farther up each time!  What I have found amusing about all of this is the imagery that I have managed to get into my brain.

Remember the movie Indiana Jones and The Raider of the Lost Ark? The beginning of it is set in the Jungle in a temple where Harrison Ford has to weigh out the sand bag to match the gold idol.  Basically that scene plays through my head every time I am cranking through the crux of this problem.  I weigh out the chances of catching the wet hold and hoping not to punt.  I over-chalk, take a breathe... do a little head-bob thing that seems to be balancing out the chances of me sticking the move and I crank.  I hit the crimp/gaston/pocket thing and take a breathe.  I feel good... I feel really good... and take a sigh of relief... then just as in the stupid movie when the idol starts to sink, my fingers start to slip!  Of course I panic, over-grip, try to make the next move and that is where the freaking boulder comes down... but instead of actually escaping the devastating traps... I find myself sailing through the air and punting.  Needless to say... if I were Indiana Jones and we played that scenario... I would be dead... probably long ago.

As of writing this I am headed back up there to go see if I can finish the route and finally move onto something else!  Overall I am hoping the spice and zestyness will allow me to pull through, but we shall see...

 

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