Yesterday, I went to the crag tired tired tired and with very little motivation to do anything but cheer on my friend Paige on her proj. I was fairly content with the choice to chill--day after day has been filled with a relentless routine of field-work (aka milesssss of sand-slogging in the dark, with the company solely of my dogs and the clouds of gnats), music (2 gigs this past week!) and cramming in climbing. As well as not sending the usual life projects like laundry, paper-work and oh, I dunno, say eating and bathing?! (And if you climb by day and do field-work by night, bathing becomes realllly hard to justify/prioritize!) But after a couple of hours of rolling form side to side on my crash pad to catch any sports action above me, the clouds rolled in and temps started to drop and my thoughts started to shift away from others' and toward my proj. Or at least to revamping the beta at the pesky crux with its "imaginary holds" as one friend described.
Then a friend arrived with the sad news that Donna Summer had succumbed to her long battle with cancer—NO! That got me off the pad and we bemoaned the loss of the great and prolific talent of DS. Sigh. As a former disco-band member, I had the chance to get pretty dang familiar with the queen of disco's compendium of hits.
So we wandered down to the proj which was finally cooling off a bit. Heat was a total issue with this route, which I scoped and marked last fall and my friend Sam then put the bolts in for my bday! But it sat out the fall missing two special-size bolts and I only got on it again recently and sporadically. (It needed pm temps and I work nights.)
But though still a titch too warmish I launched off armed w new beta and the power of Donna. Chains were clipped and "Hot Stuff" 13 a/b … +/- was established. Check it out! But bring your sequins!
R.I.P., queen of disco!