The 23.march I finally sent Rule of thumb, 8A, a boulder that have cost me quite a lot of work, and also one of the most fun and coolest boulders I have ever done. On this boulder I found new betas on every single session, also the session where I sent it. The crux on this boulder has for me been a task about patient and precise footwork. I needed to use extra time to get the heel and the toe on the exact right place, and if I did it a tiny bit wrong, I would fall for shore. The one time I used a little more time that I usually did, focusing on getting it right, I sent the boulder:) A boulder that might been the hardest I´ve sent on my weakest spots. (I´ve done things that felt harder, but those have fit my stronger sides better).
After this I was a lot in Stavtjørn working on my other project, Whore of Babylon, 8A+. Also on this boulder I found new beta late in the working progress. I abously need to get better finding betas faster. I had actually overheard the beta from many, so convinced my old beta suited me better.I couldn't have been more wrong. I sent the problem not long after (4.april) :) Cool boulder I think.
I also surprised my self sending a problem I had been trying for along time ago, Alice in Wonderland, 8A. I had been doing "the hard part" several times before, but was struggling with the top (that turned out to be a beta-thing, with jamming and high feet). As soon as I had figured out the top, I also sent the boulder. Juhuu:D
Here is a film of Rule of thumb and Whore of babylon
http://vimeo.com/40181722
http://vimeo.com/40851770
Stay tuned for part 2:)