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God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero

 
God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero
God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero
God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero
God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero
God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero
God's Own Stone - Mirko Caballero
 
May 10, 2012 - 
 

After ABS 13 Nationals, my Dad and Drew's Dad Rudy decided to plan a trip together to the Red River Gorge. Drew's parents organized the whole thing and invited some other friends from competition. Unfortunately Kai was hurt and couldn't make it, but we climbed with Jake, Timmy, and Drew's brother Jono, and also met with Michaela at the Red.

 
 

This was our very first trip to the Red River Gorge, and we were sooo excited...

Our first day at the Red River Gorge was all about getting used to the rock and doing easy climbs... until we saw Golden Boy and God's Own Stone. They were so magnificent, striking, and esthetic lines we just couldn't resist trying them. Drew was so excited he jumped right on God's Own Stone. After he was done I jumped on it, and I was surprised on how hard the crux was (v9/10 like?). After that I tried Golden Boy with Jake and I almost flashed it. I felt good, I had gotten through most of the crux with only one move remaining. I took one last breath, stepped my foot up, 1...2...3!!!! I went for the dead point caught the hold and felt it slowly slip out of my grasp!!!! I felt like I had had a pretty good day with my onsight of Herd Mentality (5.12c), my attempt on God's Own Stone (5.14a), and my almost flash of Golden Boy (5.13b).

Bob Marley!!!! We all know who he is. So it was pretty funny when we found out that the little crag, we decided to spend our day at, was called Bob Marley Crag. We warmed up on kinda sketchy slabby warmups Mass Choss (5.11d) and Route 22 (5.12a). Then we onsighted Horn another 5.11d in an overhang near Ultra Perm. After that we were fully warmed up and we tried Ultra Perm (5.13d). Which went pretty well (Drew and I both made it all the way to the top with falls first go). After that it was way to hot to climb and we packed up and drove back to our cabin.

Monday we decided to take a rest day since our friend Timmy was arriving in the evening and he was only staying till Friday. We wants to climb with him as much as we could.

Our 4th day we went to Gold Coast in the morning where I got very close to sending Golden Boy and God's Own Stone. Drew was also very close to sending God's Own Stone, and as it was Timmy's first day he got on a lot of easier stuff and he tried Herd  Mentality and Golden Boy. In the afternoon we went to Bob Marley to try Ultra Perm. Drew and I came close to sending and Timmy gave it a really good onsight go but fell at the 5th bolt.

Wednesday started off with Drew sending God's Own Stone (5.14a)! That was awesome!!! Later that day we went to the Motherlode crag, and Drew and I both flashed Forty Ounces of Justice (5.13a) and Timmy flashed Kick me in the Jimmy (5.12). I got really really close to flashing Convicted (5.13a), but I just didn't have the juice at the end of the day and ended up falling 2 bolts from the top.

Thursday was a great day where I sent Golden Boy (5.13b), onsighted Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus (5.12c) and Supafly (5.12b), and then headed to the Motherlode and sent Convicted (5.13a).

But later that night I got really sick with stomach flu and threw up all night. I had to take Friday off and stayed in bed with fever all day.

Saturday I woke up to the sound of raining outside which really worried me because I thought I wouldn't be able to climb. I was also stressed because I had less than two days left... I had sent all my other projects beside Ultra Perm, and decided not to try it again, and also gave up the idea of trying Madness and Bohica to focus on God's Own Stone. It turns out all of Gold Coast was completely dry!!! So I warmed up and got on it!!!! I wasn't really 100 percent sure I was going to send. I was just trying to have fun, but then first go I fell only once on the crux and then stuck the crux and brought it all the way to the top. I gave it a few more goes and then decided that I still wasn't fully recovered, so we decided to go to the Motherlode where I sent Skin Boat (5.13a).

Sunday I ate a good breakfast and headed back to God's Own Stone, and gave it a couple goes and got really close. I was stressed out and decided to leave and go rest a few hours and came back in the afternoon. I then sent God's Own Stone (5.14a) on my 3rd go!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well, you know what they say 3rd time's the charm...

My very first 5.14a!!!

So, my New Year's resolution was to send a V12 and a 5.14a. Guess what? I need a new New Year's resolution.

So then we headed to Miguel's Pizza and celebrated the success!!!!!

The Red River Gorge is awesome! Climbing with my friends from competition was really awesome!!! We're definitely coming back! Pity it's so far away...

 

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