Spring has sprung here at Smith and the temp continues to rise. Conditions this time of year can be great when you know what is good at the right time. Usually when the weather heats up the options are on Monkey Face, the backside of Smith, the Aggro Gully, and last but not least, the fantastic basalt gorge. The basalt climbs at Smith offer some great technique work and a full body workout. After spending time in the Smith gorge you feel comfortable smearing on just about anything, climbing above some tiny gear, and fighting through some great off-widths.
Smith Spring - Tim Garland
I always find the time in between harder projects allows me to do some great obscure routes that require techniques not typical of Smith's more popular climbs. After putting together an ascent of Jerry Moffatt's Jam Master Jay(bouldery 13d) route I have been exploring the park and getting my gear head refined. I love working on my weaknesses. I suck at bouldering, which is why I worked on Jam Master, and I suck at off-width climbing, which is why I have been spending some time on the basalt. Throwing in a Big Bro and pushing up a #5 while fighting to go up inside a crack requires more commitment then anything else. In the next month I am looking forward to struggling up some more wide cracks, finishing some longer routes, and getting ready to hit the road for summer.