29th of April: The weather wasn't very gentle with us, the rock climbers during last few weeks! Rain, rain, rain and even some snow made wet most of the climbing areas around my two »base camps«, Chamonix and Mojstrana, where we spent last two weeks. I had to do some work for the Slovenian Army, where I am employed. There were three days to spend in the caserne of Vipava, but since I am still breastfeeding, I was allowed to leave in the afternoon and join Nico and Tommy in the “boulder house” nearby. Good friend of mine, a “bouldersoul” Gregor Šeliga offered us place to stay for three days in their big house, where Katja Vidmar, another strong Slovenian “boulder girl” is living too. Nico joined them once and was amazed how they can be so psyched on such a small boulders! But one "in the game" he enjoyed too. It's the spirit that counts! Anyway, he was more psyched when I took him to the cave under the big wall in Osp. He’s never climbed on the stalactites like that!
Moody April Climbing Report - Martina Cufar
Then I showed him also my favorite climbing area Warmbad in Austria. Unfortunately almost all the nice tufas were wet due to the strong rain. Anyway he did five 8a in five climbing days in Slovenia. I was repeating those I’ve already done before. I realized all of them were much easier then the 8a-s in Buoux where we were a bit before. I was FAR from doing them! Usually a one finger pocket stopped me. Nico like those holds much more, he did Didier Rabatou’s Mission 8b! How to describe the route? One arm pull ups on one finger pockets! I was happy to do it’s much easier, but impressively steep neighbor Devers Pervers 7b+!
Before the rain “watered” all the rocks around Chamonix, I did two quite bouldery routes; Vegetal Sup 8a in Bionnassay and La main dans sac 8a in Suet. Since I wasn’t able to do Reve de Papillon (Dreams of a butterfly )8a in Buoux I said to myself that I maybe have to do Reve de larve 8b (Dreams of a larva) in Suet before. I worked out all the moves in the REALLY nice overhanging crack, but now I will have to be patient before making some serious attempts. It’s all wet! Maybe I will have to use the same trick that Nico did to do the route called Camping Gaz 8b/b+; he dried the always wet holds with the blowtorch…
And the latest news….still smells like freshly baked cookies:-) Nico left for three days to the place he loves the most – Verdon. He just did Dame Cookie in Verdon (7c, 6c, 6c, 8a, 7c+, 8a+ 5c). He was under pressure, since Nina Caprez was following him in the other rope party…And he didn’t break under pressure having “Miss multipitch routes” behind him. He did the route after a day and a half of work in the nicest way – all leading and in the first attempt. He says it’s absolutely magnificent route!
And Tommy? Absolutely funny and cool!