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Febuary Through April - Kyle Francis

Febuary Through April - Kyle Francis
Febuary Through April - Kyle Francis
Febuary Through April - Kyle Francis
Febuary Through April - Kyle Francis
Febuary Through April - Kyle Francis
April 30, 2012 - 

Wow, so the past few months have been all over the place! I went through a stretch where I wasn’t in town for 5 weekends in a row. I competed in adult and youth ABS, went to Hueco for a week, and started training for rope.


ADULT ABS - not as awesome as I was hoping… of course the event was badass, I however was not… In qualifiers I came out and flashed the first two pretty easily, but that’s when my lack of power endurance hit me. The last problem was a slab problem, which is what kept me out of semis. I was definitely disappointed, but it gave me a pretty big realization that I love rock climbing! We honestly get to do the coolest sport. Finals were also the coolest thing I’ve ever seen, with Sasha, Daniel, Shauna, and MICHAEL BAUTISTA!! Special shootout to Michael, he did absolutely incredible, and for those who saw it, we witnessed one of the most electrifying performances ever.(or at least i thought so)

YOUTH ABS - this event went a lot better than adults. However slab still killed me. Slab almost kept me out of finals which would have been a major bummer…but luckily I made it and got my chance. I flashed the first problem fairly easily. It was a slab so I thought that I had gotten the hardest one out of the way, but I was wrong. The second problem had thumbderclings as the last moves, which I for some reason could just not get them to feel good.  I was pretty gassed going into the third problem and it showed. My first two attempts were awful. I managed my time really well though and rested till there was about 30 seconds left, then got to pretty much where everyone else was, and ended fifth. Five Ten did amazing at this event!! Noah Ridge-7th ( I think) me-5th, Josh Levin 4th Alex fritz( only reason I made team!)- 3rd And Joe Gifford in 2nd.  This was my first year competing in bouldering since 2006 or 7, because I kept tearing ligaments in my finger…but it’s all good now!

HUECO - this Hueco trip I was nowhere near in as good as shape as I was in during the winter, nor were the temps good in the slightest. Pretty much 75+ every day.  I came Away with some sweet sends though!


Flower Power-v11 (2nd try)

Mo Mojo-v11

This climb took me FOREVER. I just couldn’t do the pinch move consistently from the start. It also didn’t help that I was using a toe versus a heel but whatever. The top out was pretty scary too, I was super pumped….

Dark Age- v11

This climb was awesome!! This was pretty much the first time I’ve gotten to go to north since I climbed above v5, so it was amazing. It was our last day, and my second day on. This climb I basically tried, fell, did the moves to the start of see spot run, hoped off, chalked, and sent. I was so Psyched!

Barefoot on sacred ground-v12

On this climb, I c\got pretty frustrated… It took me a little bit to figure out what I wanted to do, I just kept switching back and forth between beta before finally finding the one that worked. Then after that I gave it a burn, and fell hitting the jug before heading into see spot run. I got really mad and just chalked up and went straight back to the start and sent. I was a lot more pumped that I thought I was, so again, the top out was prettttttty terrifying.

And now I’m training for rope, and climbing better than I ever have. I found out at ABS that I was like the fattest kid in my category. I’ve started running a lot and eating way better. I have now lost 7 pounds, and slowly (but hopefully) surely building my endurance.

I cannot wait for the summer though! I’m going to the red for at least three weeks, and then Fingers crossed, going to Spain for 50 ish days to just climb. SO PSYCHED!!!!


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