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Must'a Been High 5.13c R - Carlo Traversi

 
Must'a Been High 5.13c R - Carlo Traversi
Must'a Been High 5.13c R - Carlo Traversi
Must'a Been High 5.13c R - Carlo Traversi
 
April 20, 2012 - 
 

Always psyched on switching things up, yesterday, I ventured up to the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Canyon for a go at Must'a Been High 5.13c R.  I'd played around the route a bit in February and surprised myself then by top roping it clean on my 2nd try.  The gear is fairly good, however it is a bit spaced out.  4 pieces protect about 50 feet of climbing, and that last piece is not so trustworthy in my opinion.  Sketch factor aside, the climbing is amazing.  A 20 foot slab kicks back into a 30 foot slightly overhanging mini refrigerator feature that slowly transitions into a shallow, wide "chimney" at the top.  Lie-backing and some knee bar trickery define the climbing.

 

After a quick warm-up on the neighboring Climb Of The Century 5.11c, I fixed a top rope on the objective to suss out the moves again.  I tried hard, made some mistakes, but managed another clean top rope ascent on my first try of the day.  I fiddled with the gear a bit, brushed the holds, lowered off, and began the mental preparation.  My main concern was falling on the first crux, which is the hardest.  The moves are not too bad on there own, but the lack of anything incut to hold onto adds to the feeling of insecurity.  The only gear protecting the section is a fixed piton, which "looks" pretty solid.  However, the piton is a bit lower than you would want it.  A fall from the last move of the crux would most definitely serve you a solid 15 foot fall onto the slab.  And if the piton ripped, you would probably hit the deck.  Luckily, I didn't have to test these potential outcomes.  On my first redpoint attempt, I smoothly executed the moves, placed all the gear properly, and clipped the chains.  YAY!  My hardest trad ascent to date!  Big thanks to Maury Birdwell for the belay, Jonny Hork for the support, and Paul Robinson, Alex Kahn, and Cameron Maier (Bear Cam Media) for being there to capture the send!

Video Soon!

Also I have to give huge props to the Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco for being by far the best shoe on the planet for vertical climbing where your feet cannot slip.  There's no other shoe or rubber that I would trust on the market to get the job done.

Photo credit: Paul Robinson
 

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