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Down In Albion - Will Stanhope

 
Down In Albion - Will Stanhope
 
April 17, 2012 - 
 

I spent most of the month of March at Indian Creek, Utah.  I was mostly climbing my good friends Hayden Kennedy, Jeremy Blumel, Mandoline Masse-Clark and Matt Segal.  Hayden managed to complete one of the Creek's proudest projects, which he dubbed 'The Carbondale Short Bus.'  On this trip we drank many 3.2 percent PBRs, got filthy dirty on obscure routes, and had a blast.

I established a route I was pretty happy with.  Attached is a pic that Andrew Burr took.  I love new routes so much.  For me, its just as much about discovery than it is about the physical act of climbing.  For a couple weeks, Matt, Hayden and I would comb the buttresses, telling jokes the whole time, and throwing ourselves at a whole bunch of different projects.

The crux for me on this line was hitting the final crux sequence when my feet would stick to the slopey little sandstone edges.  The crux is above three equalized knifeblades, wich a potentially awkward whipper into a corner (which I never took).  As always, the Anasazi Blancos were critical for optimal toe power and just general trust on the smears.

Thanks Five Ten for again making a potentially dangerous situation A-Okay!  :)  I called the route 'Down In Albion' and think its somewhere in the ballpark of 5.13cR.

For a little more on the background of the route, please check out my blog at http://www.willstanhope.com/uncategorized/good-friends-new-routes

 
 

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