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Change of Plans - Ben Spannuth

 
Change of Plans - Ben Spannuth
Change of Plans - Ben Spannuth
Change of Plans - Ben Spannuth
Change of Plans - Ben Spannuth
 
April 11, 2012 - 
 

The last few days I’ve been back in good ole Galt, CA to do some family stuff. Kinda bummed to have left  a sweet travel setup in Spain and numerous projects early but it’s nice to be back in Galt for a bit as well.

In order of do-ability, from a few more tries to probably never, here are the top few things I and would like to return to in Spain:

 

Esclatamasters 9a

A perfect flip of styles from the definition of fun Spanish tufa climbing to moderately heinous crimping on amazing blue rock; this route was my main focus the last week of the trip.  It was bolted by Salva Serrano and done first by Ramon Julian.  Unfortunately, it seeps like crazy and was wet most of the times I went up it.  On a drier day, I did it in two sections and will definitely be back in a less rainy season to finish it off.  After a storm and the day prior to leaving I went back for a final, hopeful shot before cleaning my draws that immediately turned into a mojado aid climbing session since basically every hold was dripping.

Simon Carter killing it with the photos…the best of which are yet to come.

Joe Blau 8c+

A laser straight line bolted by Joe Kinder, of course done first by Chris Sharma (nearly for a warm-up), that’s home to one of the longest continuous lines in Oliana.  Not the greatest rock in the intro but a nice addition to the cliff as a direct start to El Gran Blau (8b+/c) and cool redpoint crux section.

Joe's Blog

Papichulo 9a+

Sweet, sweet Papichulo.  I don’t know what to say about this route besides perfection exists, I’ll definitely be back in a cooler season.

First Round First Minute 

Despite a few laughs, the time I spent on FRFM was probably the most inspiring climbing of the trip.  Just seeing where the bar is and doing the moves (minus the mono and knee-bar clip) makes me want to get a bit more power and come back to see if I could link the first section through the “rest.”  Although the wall is mini when you walk up to it FRFM climbs like it never ends though the most unique tufas/sick pinches I’ve ever seen.

La Perla 8b+

I’m pretty sure the guidebook has a misprint and they meant to call this 9b+.  The features are unreal but this thing is another level of technical climbing to me and would require a bit of work just to figure out what to do.  Only been done by Dani and Chris?

Good work at SCS Nationals everyone!  I wish I would have been there!

Ben

 

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