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First Day Back in the Gunks NY - Andrew Kim

 
First Day Back in the Gunks NY - Andrew Kim
 
April 09, 2012 -  andrew kim    
 

Okay, so this past weekend I went to the Gunks in New Paltz, NY for a nice day of bouldering. What appeared to be a seemingly cold morning turned into an amazing day of climbing with almost perfect temps. I went with my brother, Sam and my dad, to the popular and always crowded carriage road, packed with runners, boulderers, and trad climbers. we started off on some easy warmups then went to newpair and karajo. I did a quick repeat of karajo v10+ first try. and sam made some progress on karajo. we met up with a couple of friends from our gym and went to the Buddha area. I wanted to try Crouching Dragon v10/11, while the rest of the group worked on classics like Buddha, and Andrews Boulder Problem. I did had previously done the stand to the climb, Dragons Turn, and just had to work on the sit part. I quickly did the crux move on Crouching 3rd try and repeated Dragon turns first try and started the climb from the start. Crouching revolves around 2 moves into Dragon Turns. one small move to an ok horizontal crimp crack into a big move into the start of dragon turns using a bad heel hook. From the start my heel kept coming off the crucial heel hook hold and i was not able to stick the big move for a little bit. This was my first day seriously working on Crouching and was just in a complete project mode, after some time i stuck the move, tried hard, and finished Crouching Dragon v10/11 in under 1hr. so i was pretty siked!

 

Next, I made a quick repeat of Enlightened Buddha v8/9 and made a quick send of Nitrous v8, a left variation to Buddha. I'm still feeling really good from repeating Karaja first try and making quick work of Crouching, I decided to try Venus in Scorpio, a project of mine that I have been working over the past couple of years with no luck due to a very friction/temperature dependent move. but weather was pretty good that day, when I got to the boulder I was just so siked. I repeated some of the moves and worked it from the start. This boulder problem is so physical, even though I didnt end up sending the climb I was able to make good send attempts 2 moves from the lip.

 

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