Long time has passed since the last blog spot has been written by me. I really want to say something concerning the first period of this 2012 season, especially about my trip to Fontainebleau in the first week of march.
The Dagger 8B+/V14 and Climbing in Font - Niccolò Ceria
January and February have been dedicated to climb some days in Cresciano where I crushed one of the most important lines I wanted to send, the dagger 8B+. I had many sessions on it and this experience was a bit stressful because I had 9 attempts where I fell at the last move so I found it was hard to be administrated because I was weak under the mental aspect. I chose the beta head first and I was glad and proud to do it in this way because it represents a pure compression line with a good mix of strength,power and resistance. I crushed it in one the coldest days of this season and I think it can be divided in two main sequences: the first one could be 8A/+ boulder problem characterized by a slopey rail,one sharp edge and some toe hooks I used to stay on; the second one, easier than the first, it could be 7C+/8A and features big compressions with heel hooks. Beyond this realization I also sent la pelle 8A+,la pelle left 8A and dreamtime stand after the broken hold 8A+. In these two months, I once went to arnad, in Aosta valley where I was psyched to try a long traverse called alby traverse graded 8A. I sent it quickly and after one hour I also did the extension,gabry traverse, graded 8B. In February I also climbed once in Chironico where I did a peculiar line 8A+ namely schlonziges wiener schmankerl.
Ticino is an awesome place to climb on the granite, but sometime I need a bit of bleau’s sandstone.
The climbing there is completely different, featuring big slopers, rounded aretes, technical slabs, precise body positions that make it very peculiar. I planned to go there with my friends Marco and Alice and at the beginning of march the weather seemed good enough to allow us to climb there, so we left super psyched. The journey is a bit long, about seven hours, and we filled it talking about boulders and our projects in the forest.In this trip to font I didn’t want to spend much time to try an hard line or something that required a long work, but I wanted to climb a lot of cool problems although they were under my physical limit. This is a small resume about our trip day by day:
It includes the travel and the evening, when we were in bas cuvier to climb easy slabs for just one hour. It is always great repeating la sans le mains and its neighbors blocks near the parking.
We went back to bas cuvier and we started to warm up. Alice was ready to try la marie rose, first 6a in the forest climbed for the first time in 1946. She fell at the last hard move and I ended my warm up doing hop hop hop, an eliminante game of 7b+ just on the righ of la joker. In the afternoon we moved to cuvier rampart and I tried gourmandise raccourci 8a+. After 40 mins I crushed it with a big help from marco who explained me how to figure out the hardest moves. The rain came in the late afternoon and it constrained us to leave the sector and come back to our home in the camping.
The weather seemed better than expected but it was just an illusion. The plan was to go to isatis, where there were boulders enough for us all. When we arrived I went around the forest to look for some lines that I have never seen before like for example l’arrache coer, el poussif, de vita beata and L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre. Unfortunately the rain came back again and we had to take shelter in the car, but when it stopped, everything was wet and humid so we decided to go to nemours to check ubik althought it wasn’t in our ticklists. The place where it is situated is amazing, the forest there is fantastic, soft moss covers the ground, there are a lot of trees varieties and it stands out from other sectors. We walked on those great paths and we found it after 10 mins, it looked so beautiful with slopey pinches but we imaged it better than it is truly, besides this fact I added it in my ticklist for the next trip in font. The wind blew in bleau and although there were many clouds the rock started to dry up and we moved to a new sector for us called apremont envers. I sent on the second go l’apparement 7c+ and one of the main projects of the trip was the sit of this one. It becomes an 8B and I felt that the moves in the sit added a lot in the stand start and I didn’t figure out my beta so I left it unsuccessfully. we came back toward the car and we put our pads under a traverse called welcome to tijuana 7C. I flashed the 7B version and then the extension after few goes. My day ended while marco went on until the dark and found the right beta for him to send it but it was too late.
We woke up, there was the rain again and it stopped at nine o’clock. While We waited for wind and a bit of sun, we stayed at home where I played a poker match against marco and I lost miserably. I thought that was better to have rest day, in fact I didn’t climb. After a fast lunch we moved to apremont where marco tried his traverse, but maybe he was a bit tired, the conditions weren’t the best and the problem rejected him again.
I’m feeling strong,rested and psyched ready. We went to bas cuvier where we got warm and I repeated some good classics like la joker,la conque a droite, la cle and pif paf. While marco rested and climbed easy lines with alice near la marie rose, I moved to rampart again to try the whole line of gourmandise. It adds two powerful moves to the raccourci version and it becomes 8B.after 20 mins necessary to understand the way I sent it climbing my first 8B in font although its style is not typical of this place but resembled more swiss’granite moves. The second day in font I saw one of the most perfect pillars in the forest, it was t-rex assis 8A. After a long rest, about one hour, I couldn’t wait for trying it. I climbed it after 15 mins of goes and I think that it has been a perfect moment, the moves were so lovely and the holds too, it was pure and great! Probably it could be the most brilliant gem in cuvier rampart. We picked up the pads and planned to go to imothep, I was super motivated to do it because i have always seen it in the passed years but I have never had any occasions to try it and this time that line was at the top of my list projects. The bad luck hits us once again and when we arrived under it a hail started to come down. We stayed at the feet of this huge prow and when the rain decreased we went back home.
We left for rocher du cassepot. My favorite sector under the environmental aspect; the trees are thick,the forest in this place is very wild and isolated by the rest of community, furthermore it is an almost unknown site so we could climb in the peace of the wood.We warmed up on double axel, characterized by one of the most perfect pinches I have ever held. I sent synapses 8A after three attempts and I think that it could be a bit easy for the grade but it also is very morpho and tall people are more facilitated than the short ones, probably for this fact I felt it soft.Marco had some hard times to feel the starting holds and after few goes stopped trying in order to keep good his skin and his compression-skills. In the afternoon we went to coquibus roumont, I wanted to try the island 8B+ to check its moves for an eventual adding in my ticklist. After about half an hour I did every single move except a footwork in the middle then I rested. When I started again to work it I was distroyed and I wasn’t capable of trying it so I left it very positive and super psyched for the next font’s fall.
The destination was buthiers. In the morning I decided to rest because the attempts on the island marked me a lot so I couldn’t climb until the evening when I wanted to go to fata morgana’s. At 17 o’clock in the afternoon I felt that my muscles weren’t so rested and I thought that was better avoid to go to fata morgana because it would have required me a lot of power. We moved to tennis sector in buthiers and after a quick warm up I sent in 10 mins la coccinelle, a traverse graded 8A. We came back to piscine sector and I tried appartenance 7C, a perfect technical arete opened by Christian Roumégoux.
I started to have a strong flash go but I didn’t know what was waiting for me. From that time on I fought every single attempt, every time higher than the previous one but everything in vain. After one hour and half my idea to rest for the day after was a fail and I had to leave the problem without climbing it.damn!
No climbing day. I rested and I spotted marco on one of the purest icons of fontainebleau bouldering namely controle technique 7C+. Some of His attempts were quite good, almost unexpected for him. he fell on the high part, on the last edge to go to the “good” sloper that allows to do the mantle. It is special to kill your muscle,in fact after two sessions he had to stop, but he was close enough because he understood some peculiar positions to climb the first part very well.
Maybe there was a foggy night,in fact in the morning everything was humid and almost wet. Alice tried a beautiful 6a in buthier and sent it. In the first afternoon we moved to fata morgana and the conditions improved a bit but the sky was always cloudy so it didn’t dry up a lot. We arrived there with other french guys and it was still a bit humid but not so bad. I reclimbed the stand version at the second go and the low start, my project, after five mins. When I tried fata morgana bas last year i fell at the last hard move to go to the eye-hold which is a lovely two finger pocket. This time I felt better, furthermore the first crimp had been chipped in the higher part and the foot hold for the the stand has improved and the problem changed a bit. I think that it could be a 7c/+ the stand and 8a from the bottom. For sure the main line on that boulder is satan I helvete 8B opened in 2005 when dave graham made the FA. It is not a typical bleau’s line because has a long span from a crimp to another one very far to the left. I think There are three or four betas to do it and the most suitable for me was the one where I used as the crucial foothold the low two-finger pocket. I had three good attempts where I almost grabbed the left crimp near the arete but I didn’t manage to keep my body strong to win the aleatory move. In the evening we moved to cuvier again and I climbed a morpho compression pillar called la gaule 7C.Marco went to apremont where he crushed his traverse, welcome to tijuana, that he tried at the beginning of the week, then he returned to bas cuvier and started to work on controle tecnique 7C+.
We had to come back to home but we couldn’t leave without climbing in the morning at least. Since we had some unfinished businness in bas cuvier, we went there. We hadn’t much time to spend, marco wanted to use his last chances on controle, the same was for alice on another problem and if the time would have permitted I would have liked to try imothep. Marco fell again very high on controle but he hadn’t many attempts because he started to feel tired and alice missed his problem just before the mantle unfortunately. We moved under imothep 8A, which is situated above a hill and the day was very hot, in fact there was 20 degrees i think. I crushed it after five goes and i was very happy to close the trip with this one, it is the best line i have crushed in these 10 days.
Also this time fontainebleau has given us beautiful gems to climb, wonderful places to live and great forests to watch. every time I come back home from there I feel what that forest can give under the climbing aspect and especially under the environmental one.
Concerning climbing projects for the next fall in font, there are for sure the island, satan I helvete, elephunk and many other hidden in that marvelous land.
Like everytime,I really wanted to say a big thanks to Marco, my friend of thousand climbing adventures, and to Alice for the trip and the great companionship.