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One Month in Spain - Nina Caprez

 
One Month in Spain - Nina Caprez
 
March 11, 2012 - 
 

Since the last Petzl Roc Trip in october in China, I didn't touche a lot of climbing holds. During the winter, I love skiing and training indoors and I like the sensation when the world around me is waering a white snow mantle.

 

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In the beginning of february, my desire for a pure rock trip was bigger then ever. Spontaneously, me and Cédric, we were packing our home made camping car and we were driving direction south and sun!

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Our first stop was in Margalef, but it was still to cold there and so we were driving to Oliana for a couple of days. I love the climbing there and it was so nice to feel the sun on my skin while I was climbing hard. Perfect conditions! Cédric was trying hard 'Chaxi' and me I was alternating between 'Papy Mullat' and 'Mind Control'.

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I was falling of a couple of times on a big move in Papy Mullat and I so I gave up this project for a while and I was working only on Mind Control. After only 4 trys I was able to clip the chain and it was an incredible feeling!

For Cédric, he also had to keep away his project for a while because he had serious skin problems...( At the moment right now, he's driving back to Oliana for this route...venga!)

After a super diner with a good bottle of Rioja, we joined our friends from Grenoble and Fontainbleau in Margalef. The atmosphere was incredible and we've had so much fun together. Everyone found his project in his level max and it was so cool to beeing surrounded by the cheers of 'ALLEZ, ALLEZ  and to feel how hard everyone was trying to redpoint theyr routes. Like I told you before, I've had like a big manquo of rock climbing. I think that I was like a crazy little girl, climbing the most possible from early in the morning till soon into the night...It was such a big satisfaction for me to feel again the power of rock and nature...

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Unfortunaly, my high motivation was making me a little bit fable I guess. After ten days 'a muerte' I felt sick for five days. But anyways, I was surrounded by our music box Quintin and by my personal top-chief cooker Cédric and so this lazy time passed really quickly.

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Margalef has never been one of my favourite climbing palce because the style is really physical and also kind of painful with all these pockets. But in the end, Margalef is not only 'Laboratory', Margalef has huge 40 meter walls, colonettes, crimps....it's one of these crazy canyon system and every wall is unique and I think that I felt in love with the charm of the village and the facility of live there.

After two weeks, Cédric had to drive home with the Grenoble group Rackam and Quintin and I picked up my good friend Babsi in Barcelona.

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We both found really cool projects in the sector 'Finestra' and it was so nice to be with her for once more. She's always super psyched and she never gives up! Babsi climbed a cool 8b and I did 'Aiztol' a really physical 8b+/8c.

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One of my favourite sector was 'la cathedrale' and 'Erabella' and the huge flat colonettes on the left of Erabella. Fantastic walls, un-typical climb and perfect conditions in the shadow. I flashed one 8a+ route on this flat colonettes and I did the biggest full-body fight since a long time. I also on-sightet an 8a+ on 'la Cathedrale' and I was also soooo close to onsight my first 8b, also on this wall.

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In the really end we were moving to Siurana for two days but the weather was just to cold and it wasn't so much fun. Well, I think that I was also really exhausted. I was trying hard the route 'Patinoso', an 8c+ in Siurana that fits me really well. But I was to lazy to try it seriously and so we were ending up on the beach with big cocktails, a tons of icecreams and shopping in Barcelona!;-)

Now it's time so start a new adventure. Tomorrow I will leave to Argentinia with the Petzl Crew. We will bolting routes for the next Roc Trip, I'm super super psyched!!!!!!

Thank's a lot to Nicolas Renard, alias 'grand chef', Vojtech Vrzba and Jarno Zwiebel for the nice photos and for shure Pierre Délas, So Toutepetite, Babsi Zangerl, Coquillette, Rackam and Quintin, Enzo Oddo and my lovely boyfriend Cédric for this wonderful time we spent together in Spain.

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