This past weekend I participated in the 2012 USAC ABS 13 Youth Bouldering National Championships. My Dad had to work in Colorado all week, so my Mom and I traveled with him.
On Tuesday I went to train at the Movement gym in Boulder, and we met Lynn Hill. We talked for a while, and then she bouldered with me. It was just awesome meeting her, and Lynn was really nice! I also met Matty Hong and Jamie Emerson. Wednesday I trained for a couple of hours with Justen Sjong, who gave me lots of good advice, and Thursday I climbed at Cats with Tiffany Hensley and some of her friends. Boulder is just awesome! In the evening we drove to Colorado Springs where Nationals we happening over the weekend.
The first day was Qualifiers, and we had 4 climbs to complete with a 4 minutes time limit for each one followed by a 4 minutes rest before the next climb. What a long day that was!!!! About 35 competitors give or take per category and there were 10 categories!!! The first day climbs weren't that hard maybe around V5 for the hardest. I qualified for semi-finals tied for 1st place with 5 other climbers. Grace was really unlucky. She qualified for semi-finals, but then got very sick during the night, and couldn’t climb the next day.
For semi-finals on Saturday we only had 3 climbs. Semi-finals were pretty stressful because I knew the climbs were going to be harder as they needed to separate the field. Still, it was a good day as I ended up tied in first place with Joe Goodacre and qualified for Finals. My Zero Gravity Team did great as 7 of my team members also qualified for Finals. We went to have a fun dinner with the Ruana’s from Seattle. I was really nervous, amped up, and psyched all at the same time, and had a really hard time falling asleep.
Finals!!!!! 8:00 o'clock the alarm clock rings. 8:30 breakfast orange juice, toast, and hash browns. Walking into ISO I was starting to feel stressed out again. I was 20 minutes early so I set my bag down and talked to some of my friends. After about an hour and a half, I was pretty much warmed up and as I was packing up "Mirko Caballero please check in at the front desk and come downstairs"!!! Next thing I know I'm sitting waiting to climb. My first climb was a pretty straightforward slab, but it was thin and balancy, and I was very nervous. I got it on my 2nd try after a really dumb mistake on the 1st. Problem number two was really cool!!! After reading the beta I started up on the climb. "Breathe" I kept telling myself "Keep it together", "One more move!" and YA I can hear the crowd roar behind me. I had flashed it!!! By now I was getting super psyched so when I turned to look at the third route I knew I could do it and I had instant determination!!! About two thirds up I could hear the crowd cheering and I knew that I was getting to the hard part. Heel hook match left hand to a small crimp here it was 1…2…3… JUMP my feet cut I pull up and… caught the crux hold!!!!!! Next thing I knew I was at the top, the crowd roaring, I had done it again!
2012 ABS 13 National Champion!!!!!!!
I then spent time watching and encouraging my friends and team members.
Cicada climbed awesome and also won Gold! Jacquelyn took Silver. Josh finished 4th and also got the North Face Young Gun Award for this Year. That was sooooo deserved!!! Natalia took Bronze and Matt and Sam took 7th place. Ashima and Kai also won Gold. Drew climbed amazingly but he got shut out on the 2nd problem as the start move was just waaayyy too big for him, but he flashed the 1st problem, and almost flashed the 3rd. He earned a 5th place and a USA Team member jacket!
Rumor is Continental Championships will be in South America this Fall, and most of us should be invited as part of the USA National Team!!!
My Zero Gravity Team ended up taking 3rd Place in the Team Ranking out of 70 teams!!!
After the comp I had lots of fun running around, playing and goofing with some of my friends I have made over the years competing. I like competing, and I like to fight to win, but it’s so great that after the comp we’re all just friends!