Three months ago i was in Mexico City, where I stayed for 2 months developing two new areas of Boulder and a new sector of sport routes.
The last week I was in Minerala del Chico, Pachuca were I can make a V13,Trucha Feliz ( Trout Happy) is the name of Boulder this would be one of the toughest of central Mexico. At that moment my routine was, go to train Monday through Thursday, rest on Friday, Saturday and Sunday go climb out in some rock. Actually I don’t really like being in the big cities.
At some point I realize that it's November which for me and many climbers is when you start the better part of the year. Fore me this is usually Peñoles time. Climbing area that I developed over the last 8 years.
Then more later i realize I'm crossing one more time the Big Mexican desert. I am Driving then turning to my right side and no one to which I am accustomed to. But this year is the fear of driving on the roads of Mexico, which is a hazard. Hours pass and with it the military checkpoints and Mexican federal police.
After 14 hours of driving in the desert, I am back in the town of V. Coronado, the town closest to Peñoles apparently all went well and nothing happened on the way, my mind goes a cry of joy, WeeeeeeeeeeeeA !!!!. I begin to remember all of Boulder and 3 special projects, which are what interest me.
Somehow I feel at home instantly, very confident and secure that for my Peñoles has been around a school, my university as a climber. I put my tent in my boulder cave. Which is 3 minutes from one of the projects i want a do, a possible V15, Aztec Dream is the name.
Very fast the habit of bees take off with your hands as flays, listening to the coyotes every night becomes part of the routine. Besides having a full life feral mind, there is no faucet or TV etc ...
The next week I'm with my Peñoles routine, wich is old ranch style, at 7 am light the fire, make coffee, get on the Internet boulder ( there is a Boulder wed Internet signal for cell phones), then again campfire world, breakfast daily and start climbing traing V14 and V15 projects, also open 3 new easy boulder and use the machete to open roads in Peñoles, after night falls you must go to collect wood for the fire, Once you turn on the fire, washing the dishes with great care because the water is president, food in the plastic box and put stones on top so that animals do not eat it.
This year's routine was thus more or less, but this year not sow many climbers went to Peñoles, most of the time I was alone, and fear if something happens is present and sow real you are alone and nobody would find me. So all the time very very wary of rattlesnakes and scorpions, etc. falling in Boulder ...
But over the first month, I realize that the security situation in Peñoles is not as bad as past years to improve, which gives me great pleasure. With this many people in the towns and cities that are near, began to go to Peñoles as families picnic normal ranchers mind, they were very surprised that he lived in the middle of the desert, all alone in Peñoles, like Pancho Villa they say.
So every weekend more and more people from the little towns went there , well 10 or 15 and some started going to see the hermit climber who lives in peñoles, what I findfunny.
The second month I began to focus only on 3 projects, which I think 2 may be are V15 and the other is harder, everything went very well every day there was an improvement. The problem began because of the weather, this year we've all seen the climate changed and began to get very hot, which was frustrating trying to make a V15.
Similarly, trying to continue the projects and some days the past few years, went to the project, but that is the project I have attempted or playing the last 5 years in Peñoles, can be clamped V16 or not but it is the hardest Boulder that and tried in my life, and tha one i more try in may life. This year was the idea of ??doing it, try it to death but there is 1 meter that I can not understand, I can paste into each step and make some steps but I still put it all together seems very hard.
With the heat, some days I started to return to projects had tried less hard than last year. Many began to leave in just a few attempts V13, to V8, of which there are very good quality Boulder world class.
The last few weeks the heat was 27 degrees centigrade, the skin of the fingers and rugged area to test many projects, so I decide to focus only on the ensueño Aztecaz, project I think it's a V15, 10-movements very hard , strides in bad and very sharp crimps. With all that the weather was getting worse but just getting better and swore that if he could do, but one day one of the attempts fingers began to be really cut the same place and I began using tape on the fingers which becomes very frustrating, but just try it and 3 days with tape on the fingers to the skin to recover and one day without tape. But the skin and lasted only 2 attempts and again had the skin.
At the end was 7 fingers very short and the heat was very strong, plus it was tired of being so alone. Then i started to talk to the crows and I really start think that the ancient Indians who lived in these rocks.
With all this I decide that I'm trying to 5 days, a muerte staile in these last days I stay at 3 movements to do the project. But I thought it was time to move somewhere else and surely return next year to Peñoles.
So I'm now back in Mexico City. Very motivated to train and climb in the 3 zones I began to develop before I went and also with the idea of ??making my first V15, either in Europe or U.S.A. sow lets see were.
Aztec Warrior…WEEEEEEA¡¡¡¡¡ and simper a muerte.