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Hueco Tanks and Divisionals - Kyle Francis

 
Hueco Tanks and Divisionals - Kyle Francis
 
January 24, 2012 - 
 

Sorry for the late blog post, I've just been super busy lately! so i managed to get four climbing days in Hueco tanks over Christmas break and i climbed out of my mind, by far the best trip I've ever taken.

 
 

DAY ONE

Rumble in the Jungle V12

This is a great climb that i had fallen off the last move of a couple times when i was thirteen or fourteen. I did the climb in probably an hour. this climb is pretty soft for the grade but i was still really psyched! there is video at http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150456403028029&set=p.10150456403028029&type=2&theater hopefully you'll be able to see it, but if not just friend me and ill accept!

Better eat your Weaties v8

This climb is one of the coolest climbs in the entire park. i also had tried it a couple years ago and came up unsuccessfull. this time, i stepped up, foot slipped on the first move, got chalk then sent it. I thought i was a great first day in the park.

DAY TWO

Full service V10

This climb is sooooo cool! apparently i did it completely wrong but i was still really psyched! i had to figure out the most of the beta i had, and it was a really unique sequence of moves.It was pretty funny too, because i as really tired when i got to the top and i couldn't do the beta i  had worked and had to make it up on the fly. it was a really great climb and really stout for the grade. also i tried to upload a video and hopefully i did it right.

 

Ultramega V8 FLASH

This climb was awesome! super steep on decent holds. A pretty long climb but a really good one!

Mojo V10

This climb follows a really cool line. I fell on the second move twice then sent on my third try. fortunately for me, I'm super scared of heights. Mojo has a really high top out and i didn't look it out at all before getting up there, so it was fun topping out......

after that i worked the beginning of Extine but was way to drained to send it that day.

Also on my flash attempt on 1010 i fell past the crux, in the top out, again just ran out of power, definitely a really good first two days though!!

DAY THREE

The Full Monty V12

This climb was the one problem that i really wanted to do. i would have been content if i had only sent this problem on the trip. I literally spent the entire day there, i warmed up on New Religion sit V8, then stayed there until i sent it pretty late in the day. It took me probably 30 minutes to figure out the sequence, then by an hour i had all the moves down and just needed to link it. I fell every single time after that, past the crux move, and i fell moving my foot to the left four inches. I fell there more than anywhere else. Then pretty late in the day i was losing psych and i was just going to give it maybe one or two more tries. then on my worst attempt, i somehow stuck the crux, closed my eyes and jumped for the finish and somehow stuck. easily my proudest bouldering send ever.

DAY FOUR

Extine v11

I rolled this climb really easily when i got a chance to try it. i had some improved beta that made it really easy.

the last day was kinda weird for me because i had put so much effort into full monty that y skin was destroyed and i felt like my trip was complete because i sent what i had gone out there to send. I still got really close on Sunshine V11 falling past the crux. kinda my classic thing....

DIVISIONALS

After Hueco i kinda let my training slip because i honestly felt strong enough which ended up not being awesome. The whole verticle and not overhung thing in Stone Summit killed me, and i just couldnt seem to get in rhythm. probably one of my worst performances but it put me in third and got me moved on to nationals. now im training harder than ever because im going to be competing in both adult and youth this year. Running25 miles a week and climbing  a lot more and trisets on the weekends. PSYCHED!!

 

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