First, a little history. A few years back Kevin Jorgeson established one of the hardest boulder problems on the North Coast. This boulder problem is known as Stigmata, and Kevin gave it an opinion grade on 8a.nu of (V12). It was featured in Chuck Fryberger's film Pure, under the name The Blue Schist Project. The crux move of Stigmata requires grabbing a right hand quarter pad crimp and a left hand side pull, getting your feet up and making a close to full extension reach to a positive edge halfway up the 15 ft. boulder. The finish of Stigmata climbs a beautiful face on descent crimps and jugs somewhere in the V3/4 range to the top. The crux move is extremely difficult. Now, earlier this year i managed to get the second ascent of Stigmata, and to me it felt (V11), who knows what its actual rating is but it is obviously harder than V10.
The Adrift Project- Giovanni Traversi
A few months later, I find myself back at the Stigmata boulder, as i look at the beautiful face, it dawned on me that there is more potential. I spoke with Kevin about this project and he said he had tried it some, before he put up Stigmata. He also said it would be very difficult and proud if done.
So, about the project. A couple feet up and right from the quarter pad edge on Stigmata lies a sloping jug rail. So, naturally i chalked up the jug and the upper holds for the top out. I then began re-working the beginning moves of Stigmata to get up to the crimp. In order to set up for the crux of the project, you have to grab the right hand crimp on Stigmata as a left hand gaston. The first few moves are as follows, start matched on an obvious jug at the bottom of the boulder with a left heal-hook where your hands are. Make a right hand reach, up to a slopey crimp edge and still with the left heal, grab another smaller but good left hand crimp. Come in with your right hand to a 3 finger gaston crimp. Now the hard part, grab the left hand quarter pad gaston, get your right foot up really high and left foot low under the overhang. The crux move requires a dyno out of this position to grab the jug directly up.
I have been working on this single move now for 5 days, and it feels way harder than the crux of Stigmata ever did. I had a very good session on it the other day, getting my right hand over the lip of the jug by about an inch. However, i was not able to stick the move. There has been a ton of rain recently here in Sonoma County, so unfortunately i have to postpone my projecting until dry weather comes. I am itching to get on the project ASAP! I have come up with a name for this project...The Adrift Project. Adrift, by definition is... floating without control, so i felt that name fits perfectly for the crux dyno. I am thinking this problem is somewhere in the V12/13 range. Time will tell. However, i am psyched to get the FA!
Here are some photos of the problem...ENJOY!