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Training Blog 1: Getting the Ball Rolling - Angela Payne

 
Training Blog 1:  Getting the Ball Rolling - Angela Payne
 
January 18, 2012 -  Angela Payne
 

For 15 years, competitions have been an integral part of my climbing experience.  I competed in my first competition when I was 11 and I can’t even count how many comps I’ve done since then.  At times I have become disillusioned with competing and have even walked away from the world of comp climbing all together for brief spells.  But I always find myself being drawn back in, because, to put it simply, I love it.  I love having something to train for and I gain a great deal of motivation from having a goal to work towards, such as performing well in a competition.

 

And now it’s that time of year again…comp season is on the horizon and I’ve spent the last 4 months throwing myself at my project in Rocky Mountain National Park and “recovering” from that experience by carbo-loading with Christmas cookies.  And so the training begins.

There are many things that are hard about training, but I find that the hardest part is getting the ball rolling.  I have been at it for a few weeks now, and I am beginning to get into the swing of the training routine.  Luckily, I have a definite timeline that I am working with, which sets a little fire under my behind to get in shape.  ABS Nationals are at the end of February, so that is when I really need to be ready.  After that, I am planning on competing in a few World Cups in April, and hopefully the World Cup in Vail, CO in June.

Aside from training, I also have a part-time job at an animal clinic and a volunteer position at a horse rescue.  These other responsibilities often provide a much-needed break from climbing, but also turn my schedule into quite the juggling act. It is hectic at times, but I love being able to throw myself into my climbing more than I have been able to at other times in my life.

I have created a rough training schedule for myself, which fits in around my work schedule.  Starting last year around this time, I decided that in order to really improve my abilities as a competitor, it was imperative that I work my weaknesses.  I focused on learning how to jump and climb in a more dynamic and powerful manner.  I feel that I have improved greatly on these weaknesses, but I still have a LONG way to go, so I will continue to work towards improving in those areas.  I split my time mainly between CATS (a small but amazing training facility in Boulder) and Movement Climbing and Fitness (a newer gym in Boulder), and I alternate between practicing onsighting boulders, practicing jumping, doing work in the weight room, and climbing volume.  And of course, sometimes I just leave the training mentality at home and climb for the hell of it.  

For the next few weeks, I plan to write a blog each week chronicling my training leading up to ABS Nationals.  And if I have any ambition left over that isn’t being consumed by training or work, I may even try my hand at video-making…

So, if you want to share some motivation and hear about the ups and downs of my training program, and MAYBE gain some insight into what makes me throw myself at plastic boulders….keep an eye out for my next update!

 

Comments  

#4 Angie 2012-01-29 20:18
0
hey james, derek and patrick--
thanks for the comments! glad the blog might provide some motivation for others. sorry i'm behind...new post will be coming soon!
happy climbing to you guys
#3 James G 2012-01-20 18:25
+1
I'm not really a comp climber, but I definitely feel where you're coming from when you talk about having something to train for or even just climbing for the hell of it. I'm working my way into V3/V4 territory and inter-mixing top-rope climbing for variation to my climbing routines to help get some more stamina. If you have any training routines or tips that you can share, that would go a long way to helping people like me that aren't comp-level climbers get better... and it helps me understand how other people see climbing and how they train and how I might improve.

Good luck in any case!
#2 Derek McKee 2012-01-18 22:11
+1
Good for you Angela! After break from climbing and an awesome short trip to Hueco I heavily motivated to train. I mainly train by and push myself, there is an obvious difference in effort if I have someone to train with or if someone is there to push me. I'll be sure to look for your weekly blogs! Stick with it!
#1 Patrick Reynolds 2012-01-18 17:40
+1
Comp climbing is a great joy in my life that has been missing. The same goes for climbing. Last year i spent 4 days total climbing and the other 361 days wishing I was surrounded by sunshine warming boulders around me. I said enough and have personally made it so that life will revolve around climbing and school (I'm enrolled back in college) now. January second this cookie monster has hung up his crumby mitts and chalked up again. Contact strength is coming back but it has been a long time and relearning how to climb brigs with it a whole new psyche to the experience altogether. From the simple act of hiking to some rocks or hearing your friends aw at your dyno power. Nationals will be my first comp in a long long while. I know it will be rough but that comp in Feb lit the 2012 fire to train again for me too. I look forward to reading more of your training regiment or ups and downs. I will see you either on FB or in CO fellow climber. This blog has me psyched.

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