With exuberant nature, a beautiful river with dark ice cold waters and rock formations of outstanding beauty, the area known as "Serra do Cipó" attracts tourists from around the world. This small town, located 60 miles from Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais, in southeastern Brazil has a hot rainy summer and a dry warm winter, ideal season for climbing. Besides the large limestone formations of up to 200 feet tall, it's easy to find waterfalls and canyons, which attracts more practitioners of outdoor sports such as basejumpers, canyoneers, cyclists, parachutists, and more.
With trad and sport routes, divided into four groups and several rocky sections, the "Cipó" attracts climbers from all over Brazil and the world in search of a low abrasive "soft" rock, with crimps, slopers, pockets, inverted jugs, etc. Some of the most classic sport routes of "Cipó", are located in Group 3, specifically in the "Hall of Justice." In this sector there are routes graded up to 8c (5.14b) (waiting for a second ascent to confirm the grade) in a 200 feet wall, with pink colored holds, in a huge overhang that protects the route from the rain. In other sectors there are varied inclination routed with a grades between a 6a and probably a 8c+, which hasn't received yet its FA.
After a day putting into practice what you learned about how to use your feet well, most climbers like to relax the muscles in their last route of the day, which is usually the "Lamúrias de um Viciado" ( 6c+/5.11c), with 130 feet tall, on a yellow colored stone, with good holds and the possibility to climb to the summit and watch an amazing sunset.
After a full day of climbing is common to see climbers scattered around the typical Brazilian restaurants. With their hunger satisfied, nothing like a "Forró" or a traditional feast of "Candombe" (the local community, descendant of slaves, meets and plays drums throughout the night, dancing and eating typical food, a legacy from their ancestors).
Those who visit "Cipó" has the option to choose, among more than 80 inns and hostels. There are three shelters owned by climbers, where you can receive tips, watch videos and read magazines about climbing, and find your partner for the next day.
If you like high overhang routes, don't miss "Lamúrias de um Viciado (6c+/5.11c), Sinos de Aldebaran (7b+/5.12c), Na Calada da Noite (7a+/5.12a), Heróis da Resistência (R1 7c/5.12d, R2 8a/5.13b) or Superheróis (8a+/5.13c) and 11 proteções e um segredo (7b/5.12b). If you have a thing for technical routes, climb Mr. Hide (7b+/5.12c), O Vingador (7a+/5.12a), Cabra da peste (8b+/5.14a) e Além da Imaginação (8b+/5.14a). Do you like explosive routes? Go to Escamoso (7b+/5.12c), Morfina (7c/5.12d), Poltergeist (8b/5.13d), Sombras Flutuantes (7c+/5.13a).
Text: Marcella Romanelli (escaladalivre.com.br)
Translation: Cláudio Mendonça (escaladalivre.com.br)