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Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

 
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
Xevi, placa i fisura lliure (A1), their release and first ascent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
 
January 04, 2012 - 
 

As happened before yesterday and explained in the previous post I was trying to link the old way of artificial Xevi, i fissure plaque, A1 lliure unsuccessfully to make me content with top roping, rock delicate,north face, humidity, always precarious conditions , made me throw it back on rotpunkt true.

 

But yesterday talking with Met and told him we had to go back and wanted to chain first, and took a half day to remember doing mental work and tuning movements nerves, nothing can fail, a fall could be compromised, well, this morning, there was a hard, all night without sleep Güllich watching my dog ??that has not been found in good health, I have not slept until 5:40 in the morning, lifting the brand outside temperature -3 º, and road located in north face, the mist rises and falls very quickly, very cold.

Paso to find Met and does the same suit me, I acknowledge it is the worst night I ever spent, but also that the more I'm crushed, better surrender, less pressure, more ease.

A coffee with milk, traces the canal and we are already down to the Petit Ogre, north side, and much too cold, there is no way to warm up and come home with a tape glove on his right hand did not get the other recycling , so I'll do it again, I go back to the Petit Ogre, sagging amount from a tree, and down my road Xevi, plate i crack lliure A1, and prepared to let another pick after a crack test hands and wrists that there is more to the right that Marcel once told me it was interesting.

I planed a final all the way, I remember the fixed and the difficult sequence of foot and let all the friends placed, I can take an old block with a tape (I doubt endure a fall, or the sling or rotten taco would break) as I reach the ground, tug of war for a moment the sun warmed us while preparing dressing on the left hand,taught Met prepare theirs, and we walk through again, a distant voices wake the way on foot wall, we are in the forest, are only whispers, Met realize later that I got the rope and I will not attempt to give a reminder "want to talk about the way" he says, "I overnight had time to repeat the sequence, and dream for a short while as friends and fell tore beneath you, "he commented.

As I begin the road nervous, but during the first recess of the left and the right arm twisting recessed head over the whole hand, suddenly I am lost, I hear nothing, I'm going soft, plating the friends they are well inside the fissure, breathing slow and quiet, the first crux is the most important next to the last, I close my eyes, grit my teeth and embed the left hand just below the block of wood, fit, hand thereupon right is in a position just below a little more lateral but the appliances have to stay here until it blocks holding up the foot and can lock up the left hand above the heel, the embed is more important than the last, or not as affords me the right hand out of position and raise it a tad, here I am with the rise precarious feet, until I can get the hands of the crack and take the blunt edge of it with both hands lateral position and holding the door here a dam fuck inverted left hand, uffffffff second crux overcome.

With the inverted caught and trying to regain the right arm, comes the final crux, and which always fell before yesterday when he tried to link the entire sequence, embedded above the right hand that I can leave the inverted left to bust the biceps once it is secure, I stop to rest, I feel like strangling hand, first I have no feeling in his left hand, I have to take the crack and clamped at its end comes the difficult crossing this cold the right hand of the temperature inside the fissure, now hot, burning me, and I feel like the muscles tightened, is pressed against the crack, first look and see blood, reddish above the thumb, shortly after drips bright red by the thumb staining around the dressing down of tape, I can not wait any longer to stop and I stretch the last chapo friend (I'm sure jump), clamp the crack in his left hand and foot climb in those small adhesions, holding the door fast as the right hand will drop from its recess leaving until the last minute and ladle over the continuation of the fissure, a dam good on the edge transition and a few meters to reach the top.

Euphoria, just a cycle that began 1 ½ years ago with a drop below the ledge that made me jump with Quoheart, now this chain is the best gift of kings, a thousand things occur to me, but what comforts me most is making the first ascent and release of this pathway, the difficulty, I'm pretty much the same, I could not value it collapses in a very delicate rock chaff, there is a point where you can not fall, the friends jump, orno, but it's just a great line, and have found the path and worked in this way even more comforting to me, the pain of bruised hands for two days of abutments comforts me, makes me happy.

Meanwhile Met you want to start in the art of wardrobe and the way it does right there I said Marcel, a less complicated fissure, also hand abutments and alternates with a step of good dam on the inside the crack, the experience has seemed fantastic and I'm sure it will encourage you to do more tracks like this.

 

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