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No bolts No holds, new project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

No bolts No holds, new project - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
December 19, 2011 - 

As has become common, traditional climbing, doses, and do homework while I have pending, among other things, teach the way of the Clean Met, which is gradually engaging, if we return to the Peak must practice and better than our earth, rock uncertain, pending other duties, clean finish line bolts not as welldefined No Holds Dominic, there is little dams, the feeling is the solution ...


With the first track that was released Met has been with Lost i my mind 6b + of which has made thesecond repetition, his first experience of this to place insurance, and so we explained his feeling has beenvery good, from the top and told him to look up the horrible offwidht the Crack of fear 7b I did the FirstAscent, but there was no way to convince him, the idea was to learn to set up meetings, triangular, etc,etc.

And down we started to assemble the whole shebang bolts No No holds, how cold it was today washorrible, there was even a time when we have snow, as I say, yet so cold we would have needed more to perform the last crux of the route.

Of a rope passing through the summit meeting of two knots, carabiners and the top rope to finish cleaning the line and to test it on top rope, to settling the two since we see that anger thing, crazy crazy.Begin testing the track, and if you see that first link of the path there is a big problem is impossible toprotect, only in the small horizontal crack where there are two or three very little ones and friends is tooclose to the ground, that and nothing is same, the bottom of the street is a jumble of blocks where a fall can be fatal unless everything is protected boulder mats recessed to form a great mattress for the timenecessary to resolve motions.Once you get to do the first crux nothing more feet off the ground, balance and strength enough comes thecrux second section where only one can go to the ground breathing, standing flat-footed invention justlevitate over the edge and infernal plane where hands together and where then comes another crux that I could not solve in any of the attempts.
This would be the only possible protection for only 1 meter of the meeting, falling prohibited


n this photo sequence Met is performing the first crux to stand above the small fissure. We have bothreached the same point to levitate above the blunt and not solve the last of the three crux

So here is another masterpiece that will take us head a good season, hopefully not too much timedreaming track No bolts No holds, it is of those that as you get between his eyebrows did not hit a goodeye season, if I can not sleep tonight ...Photos by Domenec Colomer


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