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Ferran Guerrero Hervas - In the process of opening ...

Ferran Guerrero Hervas - In the process of opening ...
Ferran Guerrero Hervas - In the process of opening ...
December 12, 2011 - 

Any new adventure, called adventure needs some key ingredients: unknown location, unknown or rare rock, not even knowing where to start and a lot of faith in what you do in the end that is the basis of everything, blindly believing what one does.


So after a long time, almost a year ajornando our meeting, first by my ankle injury, and then by those who make each one, we can finally get Jaume Clotet "Paca" and I to start our new adventure, opening a new route, a route that I have only seen from afar, but I do not know things, for example, how we walk through? At 8 in the morning and on time is not found in the chosen spot, carrying materials, and no small way tothe wall, get cold, a little dawn of the sun, but it is clear that warm up quickly after artillery agree that we will take on foot wall and what is the best place to go down, we started working on the ground, first a 15-meter rappel and then a semi flying rappel 70 meters, we are left in a ledge where Paca and has improvised a meeting with a lead a piton and a pair of hooks, not bad for lunch, from there I make a right flank with sneakers on very unstable ground crostosa crunchies rock, to a tree to mount the bracket base camp and start the system and has to try to crack-offwidth to whom we have his eye.

Who starts??, Tu, Paca, who are the professional issues of bricolage, so after the calico look at us several times, we finally decided to embark, embarking on Paca good, I assure you and I forwarded chachamaterial, we quickly realize that we have failed in many things, we need friends from 5 up, and it only takes one, we want to make a fairly clean way and so far we've got three chisels and parabolt of 10 in the 10 - 12 meters and we have open, and there are still many yards ahead rock, I lost track of time and hours. Although the sun, the heater appreciated nature and gives us full and we thank, we decided that we must turn to another strategy, DIY made ??by us, much larger pieces, to undertake the top of Offwidth, etc, etc, but not with those minbar our fanaticism, after gentle to the base camp down, proposed to me, if I want to try this first section off, I said and after a few animal noises in zeal, wriggle hither and thither by inside and outside the Offwidth, flush elbows, calves, toes, etc, with resolve in free until the part that we have opened, about 10 or 12 meters 7b / b +, which lacks even to open 15 or 20 more above and remain a titanic struggle, but the rock breaking under my feet, and was a full scale view I am pleased to see yet and so this section comes in free, and with this I am quite sure that the top left will also open up. I pick up, we continue to investigate possible routes high quality, thanks to let the static and another rope spliced ??we leave here, we are now only 80 meters Jumar is endless, each at their own pace, and then I first Paca and to backpacks comeback climax, almost overnight, we went over the wall in total darkness, just a good cow ramado company made ??us the top rope and frightened by noises irons. That means we have the slope, we will return with another strategy, is maintained and laborious trouble, the first contact has helped us to see and discover first hand what really hid this fissure. From here I take my hat's ability to progress Paca wall like that and I do not talk to trace backpacks "yourquiet Ferran climbing alone", this phrase has stuck to me, and more after that effort does go the jumar to bring up the backpack, a luxury open to sharing a new way with this man. We will be reporting as the adventure progresses, for the moment because we have a common pated both the full schedule.


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