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The last tentation 8a, first scent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas

 
The last tentation 8a, first scent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
The last tentation 8a, first scent - Ferran Guerrero Hervas
 
December 06, 2011 - 
 

Without further claims that Met climbing and I stayed where I left to head one of the last tracks equipped for almost a year early, at 8:00 in the morning he went to pick up, we had to stop to make coffee,temperature marking the car presaged the worst "3rd danger of ice" and we only came to mind one of the last trips to Malniu, where the two had a really bad cold that to, so the prudent thing was to wait a little, while we elcafe, both think alike ready, "if it gets the sun all morning on the wall" that the whole morning time slot depends of course, upon arrival we realized that the wall does time has ceased to touch the sun,and are only 9:30 in the morning, North-East direction, but we are ready to test a project feeling total ridiculous temperature, with tights, trousers, shirt thermal. T-shirt and fleece jacket, who gives more. Well, the idea is to test only the infernal step have not yet solved neither Met nor I, so we have to comply, we started the ritual, a rope around the other by, tapes, running boards, magnesium, brush, sneakers cats do not know if I leave something up, low amount and then all low Met, one looks at the crux and it tells me it is a round pot, the last day I saw him just make sure knew how to color but the movement was he was sure, no more solution than a Johnny Dawes, and that motivates me even more.

 

Met begins to try the route that is the least tested of the two, I've been four times with the same result and I know the method but so far had failed, so my friend comes before the crux and have problems with a high pass, after a long time to solve it and start testing the crux, no way, but I discovered a very vertical strip very small I had no control after an hour in cold pelarme Met meeting although he said otherwise (you can not hit to short after the whole shebang to be mounted to test three steps), it is my duty. Change the knot, and I quickly planted on the crux, I tested another sequence both relatively rapid climb, cold, humidity, not worse, we are going backwards instead of forward, bufffffff, I taste a thousand ways,and I thinking that the right is the micro strip of 2 mm with left hand caught in mono-miniondulaci├│n bided not breathe, walk up to micro, grow and release in the last minute to shoulder lateral strip. In one of those planed, I prefer the latter method "Met, get it, put me down a little," I repeat the previous ritual, play with the left instep, jam like crazy and I am totally in balance up at the last moment I throw a shoulder strip and bang, right hand close it, and hence Met insists that follow me to the chain, ok,everything goes, I go back down and repeat the Crux, the nerves begin, I insist that you test the that this method can do well, after trying different things Met repeats the method fails in the last dynamic and hence could not repeat the movement, want to be down to the meeting and give the first and for all. Transfer of rope, heat snorting cat feet, and above all focus on the movement, a first attempt has gone frustrated, too much strain on the body, a second attempt and reached the step, I iron them, all goes graph, press and squeeze the fist all the strips, I performed the dynamic amount and the lame in extremis, and Met still shows me not to forget anything, made the tablecloth giving it everything, and when I realize I've spent the crux, that if I have been impossible last plate plated crux is not difficult but what comes equip road and jumping with joy that I see the sartenazo anthology may be, it is easy to miss in the sequence of adhesion or feet that roma crack length or betray you on starting a middle strip, too many things, no matter I have not plated and point already done, so go for the next, thus making up the meeting where I could perform in the Last Temptation rotpunkt the 8th first ascent spread over 4 days to test unique only three movements, now missing the concatenation of Met that has left quite a point.

The way it seems more difficult than its neighbor Apocallypse Now 7c + / 8a, compartiendotodo the upper, but with a long press section, just came back today to try to refine the movement and sounded the flute. P. S. sorry for the photos, mobile phone are that way.

 

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