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First 8b "after Tommy" :-) - Martina Cufar

First 8b "after Tommy" :-) - Martina Cufar
First 8b "after Tommy" :-) - Martina Cufar
First 8b "after Tommy" :-) - Martina Cufar
First 8b "after Tommy" :-) - Martina Cufar
First 8b "after Tommy" :-) - Martina Cufar
December 05, 2011 - 

I've finished my last blog with the words that I had to find new projects. And I did find it and climbed it!

After one more 8a/a+ in Bionnassay, La loi de Murphy et two 7c on sight/flash, La double colonne and Carpe diem in Suet, it was time to check something harder. First I’ve tried Tweety 8b in Bionnassay. Oulala, it’s certainly the hardest 8b I’ve ever tried!!! Well, I was more or less able to do the moves, but FAAAR from linking them. I was bouldering with the ropeJ Sometimes the “distance” between 8a+ and 8b is huge!


Since it was too hot !!!! to climb hard routes in Bionnassay (1500m), we moved down the valley to Suet (750m). Yes, you’ve seen right. It was too hot. There was an inversion and in the altitude it was really warm. I took advantage of this to hike with Tommy up to 2000m.

In Suet I went to check out the route Que la couenne coule du cul des boeufs 8b. I had been on it already on the day when Nico had done it, a year and a half ago, but couldn’t have come to the top. The bolts a pretty far, I would say it’s 8b (8a obligatory). Also this time I couldn’t make it to the top on the first day. There’s a long move from an undercling and a pinch from which you have to jump on a sloppy ledge. After about 10 long flies I gave up for that day. But I couldn’t sleep well; I kept on thinking how could I place myself better, or how to take the holds to be able to jump higher. Two days later I was fresh and more creative and I found the solution. Well, it was simple. Crimp strongly, use your biceps and push with your legs, without dropknees or other technical solutionsJ Once on the slopper I was disappointed, there wasn’t any good holds nearby. Just a good tufa far away. Another dynamic move! My power was gone, Tommy began to cry under the wall and I was flying again. An hour later, lighter for Tommy’s lunch, I finally clipped the rope to the anchor and started to believe that I was able to do the route. On my next visit I was close, but needed to fine-tuned some details. On Saturday, the last day before the bad weather, I did it on my first attempt! Cool! I was really happy, especially because it was not really my type of route with so many long and dynamic moves. Nico was successful too; he did Tchouk Tchouk Nougat 8b and almost another one, Camping Gaz, a hard hard 8b. He will have to wait for the rock to dry…

People are asking me, what is my “recipe” to be able to climb so hard just 5 months after delivery. It’s simple; Huge passion for climbing!

Of course I have to be grateful to Tommy who is sleeping well and a lot, so I wake up fresh every day too, then there are the two grandmothers who are happy to spend some hours with Tommy while with Nico we are climbing. I also have three good artificial walls in the range of 5km…2h are more than enough for an efficient training.

Today the snow and rain came to Chamonix, so we will move south at the end of the week, to Buoux and Saint Leger. And, no, I didn’t give up on Tweety, I will surely go back “rope bouldering” on the sunny winter days, trying to link more than 3 moves at onceJ Maybe one day I do all of them!

PS: I don’t have any climbing photos, have fun with Tommy’s ones


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