We started our trip to the red by driving 20 hours through the night with four drivers and made it to Miguel’s pizza by noon. Immediately after arriving we got directions to the drive-by crag and headed there to finally climb on the world class sandstone. With three hours of sleep and no food the whole day we started on the classic warm-up Breakfast Burrito 10d. Then moved onto Primus Noctum 12a, Whipper Snapper 12b, and Kaleidoscope 13c. The red is a very unique area, because its a safe crag were you can have a lot of fun. You get to the top of a recently sent route call for slack and jump off and go for the big fall into mid air!! With an amazing day, we headed back to camp and ordered the best pizza hand made by Miguel. That night it started to rain non stop until morning and through out the next few days.
Red River Gorge - Urs Moosmuller
The next day we woke up to rain and headed to the motherload thinking all the overhangs should be bone dry. We were dead wrong. The humidity and condensation creates a layer of water that soaks the walls. After slipping and sliding multiple times off of the classics Chainsaw Massacre 12a and Ale8one 12b we gave up and headed back to camp defeated. Monday morning started with a slight shower then stopped half way through breakfast. We decided to head back to drive by crag to get back on kaleidoscope and to check if conditions were better. We arrived to the crag with the worst conditions seen so far that season. The whole day was spent trying to aid up the overhangs enough to set up some big swings.
It wasn't for another full day of rain that we finally started seeing better conditions. The rain stopped and we spent a fun day at the sanctuary climbing the clean arete of Immaculate Deception 12a, Triple Sec 12d, and the perfect pockets on Jesus Wept 12d. The rock had dried considerably and the next three days turned out to be perfect conditions except one set back. The next morning I woke up to a bad cold. My whole body ached and that day I had one goal to finish the route Golden Touch 13b at the motherlode. The first attempt I missed the huge jug high up on the route and took a 15 footer. I had to focus everything to make it to the top before I was to tired to climb it. The next try I latched the jug and completed the last tricky section before the anchors. I lowered off and rested as much as I could in between nasty coughing fits.
With two days left before leaving back to Boulder we decided to see what the Bob Marley crag was like. Immediately I spotted a 13b called No Redemption that was completely my style. A vertical wall with super technical and desperate cruxes divided by good rests. My first try I dialed down all the moves and rested for an hour until my pump was completely gone. Finally everything felt perfect. The temperature dropped and the sandstone became really sticky. I headed up and cruised the first insecure and really tensiony crux and milked the only rest. I executed the final crux sequence and in a rushed effort I lunged for a jug and held it for half a second before pealing off. Way to pumped I cleaned it and went back to camp to start packing up and get a good nights sleep before the long drive the next day.
As soon as everything was packed in the morning we headed to military wall. That morning the cold hit me full force and for a while I looked like a zombie. The last day of the trip had come. For a while I watched my friends until I couldn’t resist climbing a few more routes. I ticked off the three classic 12b’s and called it a day. The ride back to Boulder was long and miserable. But overall the trip was a blast and I saw a whole new style of climbing. I definitely have this place on my list of climbing areas I want to return to.