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Joe's Valley Recon Mission - Emily Dudley

 
Joe's Valley Recon Mission - Emily Dudley
 
November 29, 2011 -  Emily Dudley    
 

Over Thanksgiving break a crew and I went to Joe’s Valley Utah for five days of bouldering. The crew consisted of Paul “P.Diddy” Dusatko, Andrea “I’m not barfy” Trujillo, Zach “Centerfold” Lerner, Gentle Ben and me. The forecast looked perfect; dry and cool. After a grueling week of setting for an ABS Local competition and a couple weeks of trying and falling off projects I was tired and in need of a vacation. I went without a clear goal in mind; I was just psyched to climb on beautiful sandstone boulders.

 

We arrived late afternoon on Tuesday and went to scope the Mansize area. We started warming up, I did Poricini Portabello and Stand-Up Comedian, however before I could try Fingerhut the sun started going down and so did the temps.

For the next two days the weather was dry but cool with temperatures in the high 30’s and low 40’s. On the third day I finally got to go to Jitterbug Perfume. It is one of the most beautiful lines in Joe’s Valley. The holds are tiny, sharp crimps, which I love! Although it is a little reachy for my 5’4” stature I was able to figure out alternate beta utilizing my small girl hands. It was colder than I normally like to climb in but the cool temps saved my skin. Out of fear of splitting a tip and my body’s inability to warm-up I quit trying after reaching my high point. I can’t wait to go back to finish it off!!

The next day I tried Hooters, a crimpy V9. It starts on two crimps, goes to an uncomfortable left hand crimp, then a big cross with the right hand to a big jug crimp. After messing around with beta for a while I finally figured out that the beta people were telling me to use was in fact the correct one. I came really close to sticking the jug crimp. Another fun line I want to go back and finish.

For Thanksgiving we had a room at Gilly’s Inn and Country Store in Ferron. The room was clean and spacious with a little kitchenette that included a toaster oven, microwave, and mini-fridge. We feasted on chicken fajitas, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and Andes mints while watching the best worst Thanksgiving horror movie ever, Thankskilling. It is the story of an evil turkey that was necromanced to kill as many people as possible. The turkey talks, drives, and is the best actor in the movie. Basically he’s a balla. I highly recommend this movie for audiences 17 and up that want endless jokes for their climbing trip.

After making the rounds to classic problems like the Angler, Big Joe, Wills A Fire, and the whole Pimpin Genes area. We spent the last half day in New Joe’s. I tried Resident Evil but this being my fifth day on I just could not make my body try hard.

This trip I was psyched to just climb on anything. I got so excited by all the amazing lines I couldn’t focus my energy on just one. I can’t wait to go back to everything: Hooters, Jitterbug Perfume, Resident Evil, and many other problems. This was one of the most memorable and fun Thanksgivings I have had thanks to good friends and amazing climbing!

 

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