BREAKING NEWS: One year after Leo's legendary first ascent of the Prophet (5.13d R), Canadian climbers and fellow Five Ten Athletes, Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope climb one of Yosemite’s boldest and hardest free climbs. Sonnie managed to free every pitch, with only 1 fall in all 13 pitches, while Will climbed everything but the final crux clean. An outstanding effort on their part, especially considering this was Sonnie's first El Cap route EVER. The duo spent their birthday’s on the climb (November 15 and 16), starting up on November 14th, what a gift they gave themselves.
"I think it's the hardest route I have ever done in terms of effort. It took about 25 days of work, over 5 weeks, that's comparable to climbs like the Cobra Crack 5.14b, and Rhapsody, 5.14c. We tried 5 times from the ground and walked away being too intimidated. I'm glad we kept going back and I'm glad we persevered, it was worth every second of it. It's one of the most savage and satisfying climbs I have ever done. Thanks to Leo and Jas for their vision. Can't wait to climb another free route on the Captain it's just so much fun."
The team was inspired to try the line after reading Leo's heroic account of the route in the Spring Issue of Rock and Ice where Leo was on the cover. "That photo just grabbed our imaginations and instead of trying an easy, safe free route - we thought, why not just get in over our heads and try this and see what happens." says Trotter. "You never know unless you try".