At the end of September I was in Gorges du Loup. I climbed in Deverse a nice overhanging wall with some tufas. Most of the routes are chipped sadly. But there are also some very nice natural lines!
I enjoyed trying “Inga” 9a, the most overhanging line on that wall. It was first climbed by Dai Koyamada and repeated by Enzo Oddo.
INGA starts with a very nice roof climb, something like an 8b boulder that goes on into „7pm J.B. Show“ 8c.
I also took a look into “Trip Tic Tonic” and “Abyss”, but “Inga” was the most interesting line for me. Compared to the others, the moves of the roof are much trickier and more interesting, I like tricky climbs!
I sent “7pm” in 5 tries but I kept on working on that one till everything felt very perfect. For the last 10 moves I had to climb on sloppy holds. So I was a bit scared of warm weather and still air. But at the end I was lucky and I could do good tries.
After a few tries from the start I fell off shortly before the anchor. I was too excited about the unexpected good go. The sun was coming closer and I wasn’t optimistic for that day. I just tried for training, without any pressure and I was very happy, when I sent all the way up to the anchor, reaching it just before the sun. I was very happy!
It was a very good trip for me, a lot of fun and a good time with nice people.
Here the interesting history of “7 pm J.P. show”: The line was bolted by someone called J.P., he wanted to chip a 7b route. Lucky Axel Franco came and sent the natural line. So, “7 pm J.P. show” is the only natural 8c in Deverse.
So, stop chipping holds !