I wrote about the "Astronautenfieber" in my last blog when I unfortunately didn't have the time to finish it off. I wouldn't call this one a proper highball but the 5 meter overhanging arete sure is high enough to pump up some adrenalin once you reach the crux. Anyways, motivation was high and I couldn't wait to get back on the rock again. A few days later I found myself just around the corner warming up on that classic slopy traverse. A couple of people were already trying the first moves of Astronautenfieber, so I couldn't resist the perfectly set up pads and decided to give it a go. I wasn't warmed up properly yet, so I felt pretty shaky when climbing but somehow managed to hold on those tiny crimps and stick the last dyno to a good gastone. I was more than happy with my ascent, and psyched to move on. Now I was awake. And ready for more ...
Two more classics @ Magic Wood - Tobias Haller
"Electroboogie" was next on the list. I've been trying this one quite a bit and it really feels tough to me. It's one of those problems where it is hard to breath once you pull off the ground. Super physical climbing with an awkward move of a gastone up to a slopy pinch that is extremely dependent on the conditions. For now I just kept slipping off that hold and I decided to come back later as it just seemed to be too hot right now. In the meanwhile, my mates Ben and Dave checked out "Hoehenrausch" - a very scary problem with the crux being the last move and the shitiest landing you can imagine. Not sure what is terrifying here: climbing or spotting ... :)
Waiting for the colder temps turned out to be a good decision. We went back up the hill to give it another go at "Electroboogie". To my surprise it went down straight away. I almost punted on the easy top-out because I never tried it before, but with some advice from my friends I kept it together. Yeahh!!
I filmed all the attempts before with a professional camera, but couldn't be bothered to set it up again later that day. So the footage from the actual ascent is from my mate's iPhone. Check out the video here:http://vimeo.com/30505137