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Update!! - Therese Johansen

 
Update!! - Therese Johansen
 
November 03, 2011 -  Therese Johansen    
 

In May we where in Vingsand, where I did my until now hardest project I`ve done. The boulder is named Propaganda, it´s in a steep cave with 10-13 hard moves before a 10 easy moves top-out. It was a hard and long fight, and when I had sending attempts I could only do 1 or two tries a day (depending that the tries where proper). After those tries it was just about working the moves again, no point in try to send. The day I sent it was the last day before a rain-period, so if I wanted to send it before leaving I had 1 or top 2 tries on me. I was in a fighting mood the hole day before the climbing (not fighting like bad mood, just preparing for the send). It worked! I had the hardest and the best climb I ever done, with the best fight. I almost fell of a couple of times as well..I love this kind of bouldering- max pump. The boulder was first done of Bernd Zangerl, who put it in 8B. Because I had a different beta, with a knee drop and another hold (which Bernd didn't see) until a shoulder press, i put the boulder in 8A+, although after doing several other 8A+`s it may have been wrong of me to downgrade it. But whatever, AWESOME climb!!!!

 

After Vingsand I had a short family visit in Bodø  before one of the highlights of the year: the two months trip to Rocklands!!!:D

Rocklands was my first time bouldering outside Europe (if you don't count plastic comps, which I of course don't do). The place is just beautiful!!!and we got to see baboons and snakes:S actually we where lucky and saw baboons several times, and sometimes on short hold. I where really afraid of them, as they could be aggressive especially against woman I heard. Actually the day I did Black Shadow, I was supposed to try A tea with elmarie instead, but the parking spot was full of scary baboons. I didn't have the nerves (coward). But it turned out well as I managed to to one of the nicest boulders I done, steep and a toe hooking:) and a lovely line! And I got to do A Tea with Elmarie another day;) The atmosphere in Rocklands was also great! All the climbers lived quite close, and I got too meet and get known with a lot of good people. At one point of the trip we where almost only Norwegians living at the Alpha farm:) Unfortunately Cape Town got to far away to do any sightseeing this time, but- next time:) I will definitely come back!!  Unfortunately my camera got broken in the beginning of the trip, so not many pictures where taken:( But thanks to Eiving Wang I have some good ones:)

When I got home to Stavanger it was time to earn some money to the next trip. We where home for about two months:) We where hoping the weather would be nice, as I have a tons of projects, we got to boulder outside a couple of times, but mainly the weather sucked..Well I`m gonna live there my whole life, got plenty of time:)

The first stop of our new trip was Fontainebleu!I convinced my boyfriend to spend two weeks here first instead of going directly to Switzerland:)  The drive was awful!! Our car drive in maximum 110 km/h, that's fast enough for me, but on the autobahn in Germany the drivers got pissed if we chilled out in 100 (our car don't feel so good in 110, eventhoug it worked). Well, luckily we survived.. I wanted to climb a lot in Font, not to try harder things, so my goals was 5#7A`s or up act climbing day, with pictures of all boulders. It turned out to be pretty hard. Especially on smaller areas. It worked for a while, and was fun, but after a week I decided to just climb normal:) For more pictures see my blog( www.therese-johansen.blogspot.com) .

From Font we drove directly to Switzerland. A much nicer drive than the one we had from Norway. We spent the first week in Magic Wood. A lovely place!!!We where both ready to try some harder things, and I was psyched to do some crimping again! At first I where psyched on Riverbed, but after a short while my thigh started to hurt when i heel-hooked, so I had to stop as a heel hook is part of the crux. We went on to Electroboogie. Definitly a lot of different betas going on, but I didn't quite find mine. Cool boulder though. After a day of rein/snow it had been snowing in Magic, where we prepared for only conditions at Bruno block. I where psyched at something else, so went to see, and to my surprise Pura Vida was dry:) I had tried it one session before in spring 2010, but didn't got really psyched. At that time I couldn't figure out the moves in the to either. The moves felt much better this time, and i figured out a beta in the top (involving a high foot move), afterwards I sent it quit quickly:)

The next day I fell on my already not so good back. The pads where laying bendet, so that there where no madras in the middle of the pad (and under there was of course a rock). I was worried my trip where ruined, as I had very much pain even walking, but luckily it got better day by day:)

After Magic we got where we are now. Ludiano (renting a flat and bouldering in chironico and Brione and later Creciano). I have found a lot of new projects, but haven't had any more luck at sending. And now it is supposed to rain for many days. What to do?:S I`ve considered flying to Norway for the national championship, but well, then I would have to fly tomorrow already and I`ve got no tickets. So I have to which the live streaming!Thank God we are in 2011, somethings to do on rainy days:)

We will probably be in Switzerland until end of November, depending on the weather. Hope it gets better:)

Therese

 

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