The best and most dangerous climbing, unique nature and unique climbing community. This is the sandstone town of Adrspach in Czech Republic.
Let's visit Adrspach! - Tomáš Binter
Finally we found a few free days, well, why not to spent them in our most favourite climbing area? Here is short invitation to sandstone climbing in Adrspach. This is one of the place, that every climber should visit in his climbing life. Forget about improving in ranking game, every ascent here has its worth and you'll not find sport and safe routes here. Surely you'll never forget any of the route you would do on the sharp end.
Sharp end, that's also the name of the movie, where one part describes Czech and German sandstone climbing. For those, who have seen it, remember the part about jumping between towers - the activity was born here as well as the best sandstone routes in the world!
Adrspach is a small vilage in the north part of Czech Republic. The sandstone town, its full name is Adrspasko-Teplicke skaly, has more than 1600 towers, of which some are more than 100 meter tall. The very most of them have already been climbed. Sandstone here is absolutely different than anywhere else and that provides absolutely different felling of climbing. The rock is very soft, the character is very special - cracks, slightly leaning walls without holds nor footholds, always friction climbing, vertical walls on slopers... And only few routes with fingerholes or crimps.. Even overhangs are here, but only very few. The uniqueness of climbing here exists thanks to it's rules and thaks to the routemakers, who are frequently inhabitants of the village or surroundings. Despite these old classics are now about sixty years old, they still climb and set up hard and dangerous routes.
And now, the most important. The tradition. Routes here arose according to habits and rules, that are very special. I think that the only areas, where such rules exist, are in Czech Republic and in Germany - only these two countries have such kind of soft sandstone.
1) No gear such as friends, cams. The only protection you can use for additional protection are slings.
2) All new routes can be done only from the bottom- the rings (sandstone climbing uses rings instead of bolts) must not be closer than 3 meters - This distance is only in few of hardest routes, otherwise they are much further. Often, there are no:)
3) No chalk at all.
4) Top-rope climbing = when the belayer stands on the ground = is forbiden.
Especially points one and two, combined with the courage and sometimes even madness of the routmakers, gave birth to beautiful and very dangerous routes. Basicly could be said "the harder route,the better protected it is" but even once comes easier part in hard route and all rings are gone. And then depends on you, if you are not only strong, but also couragous. Everybody can find here many routes in every grade and lenght up to 130meters. Even Dani Andrada has come this year and as I know, he liked it very much.
This is the only area, where even 8c climber enjoys routes in 5th grade. Thanks to tradition, the climbing there has a spirit, connects climbers into friends, more like family. Every tower has its own book on the summit, where climbers, who have ascended the tower make a record. So, come to visit pure nature, climb nice routes, make your own records on summits and spend night in one of three climbing pubs with glass of perfect Czech beer.